Traditional English Stripes

Quality Pinstripe Fabric

Who doesn’t like a pinstripe suit? Perfect for the office while still looking good after hours or in any social occasion. At just slightly more than our popular Beijing suit, this is good value where you get a better quality suit for only a few extra dollars.

This is an upgrade to our Beijing English cut suit. Made by the same tailors the only difference is the fabric. It’s a higher grade and more expensive cloth hence the higher price for the suit.

Elite Suits is all about choice for the customer. You can choose the style of the suit you want from the American, English or Italian cuts. You can choose if you want the cheaper standard fused canvas or pay a little more for the far higher quality of full canvas construction.

Finally you can choose the grade of the fabric you want. Pay a little more and get a higher grade fabric. We have four suits in the English cut range and in order of fabric quality they are the Beijing, English Stripes, Check Plaids & Stripes and the Shanghai Collection.

All four suits are made the same way by the same tailors and the only difference is the grade of fabric used. This gives you the choice of paying a little more to get a higher grade cloth.

WHY PAY MORE FOR A BETTER FABRIC?

Not all fabric are the same. If they were then all we would sell is our bargain fused or full canvas suits and every suit we have would be under $400. We certainly would not need to sell more expensive suits such as our Ausfine Fabric suits which can go over the $2,000 mark and we do sell a few of them.

Like most things in life, with suits you get what you pay for. The more you pay the better suit you will receive. While there are a lot of things that go into a quality suit there are two very important characteristics that will determine just how high a quality the suit is.

  1. The method of construction
  2. The quality of the fabric

No matter what other people try and tell you, a full canvas suit is far superior to a fused  or half canvas suit. Not only will it look better it will also last far longer.

It’s the same with fabric. While we believe all our suits have far better quality cloth than most other suits in similar price brackets, there are limits to what even we can do. Cheaper fabric will deteriorate with wear. The more you wear your suit the faster the fabric will show signs of wear and tear.

All the suits in the English cut range starting with the Beijing Collection are made as suits that can be worn in a business setting and therefore are worn regularly. Accordingly, when we selected our fabrics we looked for ones that will stand up to being worn often. We looked for fabrics that are lightweight yet strong enough to withstand regular wearing.

The higher grade of fabric used the longer your suit should last and still continue to look good. So while the Beijing Collection suits are great value for money and you should get good wear time out of them for the price, by paying a little more your suit is made from a higher grade fabric which should feel better, drape the body better and most importantly last longer.

To learn more about fabric quality have read OF THIS where fabric quality is discussed in detail.

THE FABRIC

This is 9.5oz cloth which makes it perfect for all year round wear and suitable for those in a warmer climate. Milled in England and dyed in China it’s a great quality fabric for a suit this price. Strong yet lightweight and easy to wear it’s a good looking suit for those after something in a pinstripe.

As it’s a higher grade of cloth than you normally find in suits this price you won’t get the issues that can plague cheaper fabrics and you will find that the suit will wear better and  far longer. You can see the range of available fabrics HERE

THE TAILORING

How your suit is tailored is also important in determining the quality. These suits are made by the same tailors that make our Beijing Collection suits. Just as we sought out quality fabrics for our suits we also wanted quality tailoring instead of the cheap mass produced machine stitched suits that the big suit factories churn out by the thousands.

The standard fused canvas version (CLICK HERE for an explanation of the various jacket canvassing techniques) is made in a factory setting. However, unlike the mass produced machine made suits, the fabric is cut by hand by an experienced cutter/patternmaker and hand sewn together by seamstresses rather than machine made. This human interaction allows for small adjustments to be made that machines simply can’t replicate. So if you’re a shape that’s slightly different to normal, the tailors can adjust the pattern to accommodate your individual requirements. This is something that can’t be done by most factories that use machines to churn out suits in a cookie cutter pattern.

The factory is owned by a father and son who are both trained and experienced tailors. The father has been a tailor for over 50 years and can spot a defect in a suit from 30 metres. They mostly make fused and half canvas suits for some of Asia’s best known high end stores and I don’t mind telling you they charge more than we could pay elsewhere but quality is worth the difference.

The full canvas version is a completely different suit. Completely hand made, the suit is cut, fully canvassed and sewn together by a highly trained tailor who makes nothing else but full canvas suits. We use a couple of different tailors to make these suits and most of them run their own tailoring business out of a small workshop,

As we are using trained tailors that handmake the suits we are able to accommodate some small changes that can’t be done in the factories that machine make suits to a cookie cutter pattern. Items such as adjustments to the lapel size or lowering the buttoning position can be done. We can also make a natural shoulder instead of a highly padded one for those of you who have squarer shoulders.

The extra for a full canvas suit isn’t an expense it’s an investment in good suiting. The full canvas suit will look better, drape around the body better and last far longer than the standard canvas. It’s definitely worth the extra

One quick point of clarification here. When we say “hand sewn” we mean that the suit is sewn by either a tailor or seamstress using a sewing machine rather than a fully automated  machine process as you will find in most suit factories. This is different to a fully “hand stitched” suit with is made by a tailor in the traditional manner with each stitch done by hand with a needle and thread.

WHERE CAN I WEAR THIS SUIT?

Anywhere. It’s as simple as that.  The higher grade fabric in the Beijing suit will stand up to regular wear than most other similar priced suits offered elsewhere. The full canvas version will wear extremely well and although it may cost a little more you should expect to get a far longer wear time before it needs replacement which means it will actually work out to be cheaper over the longer run.

The traditional English cut of these suits make it perfect for the office. Designed to be worn comfortably for a long time the more relaxed fit of the traditional English cut make it the ideal suit for business wear. This is a suit you can wear a couple of times a week and still expect it to last for many years and still look good. Combine a well made suit with a fashionable fabric choice and not only can you have a suit suitable for the office but still look good at an after five setting.

DELIVERY TIME

This suit is especially custom made for you so it takes around 21 days from when we accept your measurements to delivery.  The measurement process is easier than you may think and is fully explained with some tips to get better accuracy HEREHowever, if you prefer we can also make your suit in a standard off the rack size as well.

WARRANTY

The measurement process isn’t rocket science. If you have a good fitting jacket and trousers you can check your measurements against these and you can see how HERE. If the measurements are accurate then your suit should be a good fit straight out of the box. However, some customers do have their suits tweaked at their local alterations place to get that individual fit they prefer,

Every so often though we get a suit that doesn’t fit right. While there may be a tailoring error it’s fairly rare and most of the problems with fit are due to the measurements we receive not being entirely accurate.

We understand that sometimes mistakes are going to happen and so that you can order your Elite Suit with the confidence that you will have a good fitting suit we offer our No Worries Guarantee. This means if your suit simply doesn’t fit we will either pay for the suit to be altered or arrange a replacement suit at no charge.

If you read the warranty, even though there are a few terms and conditions, I think you will find it’s one of, if not the, most comprehensive warranty in the industry. No ridiculous $30 or $40 limit on alterations or reimbursement by way of store credit. If the suit simply doesn’t fit we will reimburse you in full for the alterations in cash‘or arrange for a replacement suit to be sent to you.

That should allow you to order your Elite Suit with confidence.

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Metallic Wool Suits

Made for Clubbing.

Shiny suits are becoming popular are are now worn by some of the world’s style icons

DB-3

Rather than use polyester we have sourced a metallic s120’s Italian wool specifically designed to make a suit with a high sheen.

Rather than go to the radical urban street style of the Slim Fit Hipster Suits these are stylish Italian cut suits that can be worn bu anyone but made in a wool that give off a noticable sheen.

 

 

These are not suits to be worn to the office (unless you happen to work in the world’s trendiest workplace), they are made for clubbing. No ties and an open neck shirt, these suits are designed to make an impression and get you noticed.

DB-2

These are for guys who believe in the motto “Dress to Impress”and want to stand out from the crowd. Add a touch of jewellery such as a nice chain and cufflinks (don’t overdo the jewellery guys unless you’re after the 1970’s porn star look) and you will give off a stylish fashionable look that other people notice and here’s a secret for you guys, women like men that other women notice.

DB-1

 

THE FABRIC

This is a s120’s wool that’s made in Italy. The fabric is design to have a natural sheen. The lighter the colour the more noticeable the sheen.

You can depend on the Italians to make a quality fabric to make these special suits and you can see the available fabrics  HERE

THE TAILORING

This is not the slimmer cut tighter urban street style hipster suit. It’s a standard yet fashionable “Italian Cut” made by the same tailor that make our Rome Suits

The “Italian Cut”suit  is by design a slim fit suit. The silhouette is sleek, modern and very stylish. . They are shorter and tighter fitting and shoulders are padded while lapel notches and buttons are positioned higher than in British and American jackets. Pockets are normally flapless and jackets have pronounced V-shape. Opposite of British style suits, Italians prefer to use lighter cloths, higher gorge lines, and less overall padding.Pants have tapered waist and hips are snug to the body.

Whilst remaining comfortable to wear you will still look stylish and fashionable and people will notice

WHERE CAN I WEAR THIS SUIT?

This is without doubt a clubbing suit. It’s certainly not something that you would wear in a conservative office environment. It’s designed for men that want to give off a trendy stylish and fashionable look in a social situation.

DELIVERY TIME

This suit is especially custom made for you so it takes around 21 days from when we accept your measurements to delivery.  The measurement process is easier than you may think and is fully explained with some tips to get better accuracy HEREHowever, if you prefer we can also make your suit in a standard off the rack size as well.

WARRANTY

The measurement process isn’t rocket science. If you have a good fitting jacket and trousers you can check your measurements against these and you can see how HERE. If the measurements are accurate then your suit should be a good fit straight out of the box. However, some customers do have their suits tweaked at their local alterations place to get that individual fit they prefer,

Every so often though we get a suit that doesn’t fit right. While there may be a tailoring error it’s fairly rare and most of the problems with fit are due to the measurements we receive not being entirely accurate.

We understand that sometimes mistakes are going to happen and so that you can order your Elite Suit with the confidence that you will have a good fitting suit we offer our No Worries Guarantee. This means if your suit simply doesn’t fit we will either pay for the suit to be altered or arrange a replacement suit at no charge.

If you read the warranty, even though there are a few terms and conditions, I think you will find it’s one of, if not the, most comprehensive warranty in the industry. No ridiculous $30 or $40 limit on alterations or reimbursement by way of store credit. If the suit simply doesn’t fit we will reimburse you in full for the alterations in cash‘or arrange for a replacement suit to be sent to you.

That should allow you to order your Elite Suit with confidence.

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Made To Measure Wool Suit

A Wool Suit For Those Rare Occasions

If you read this blog you will soon discover that I’m not really a fan of mass produced machine made suits and this is the second of the only two of these suits that we sell. However, they do have their place.

If you’re looking for an inexpensive suit that you’re only going to wear a couple of times a year then this is as good as many others you will see selling for far more than this one. While it’s made in a suit factory by mostly machines we have sought the best quality we could find for a suit designed to sell at a low price.

Wear it on those occasions when you need a suit, hang it properly after each wear and you will more than likely get a good few years out of it.

Again fully tailored and made from a wool fabric far better than the normal polyester blends you normally find in a suit at this price, it’s without doubt an excellent suit for the money and far better then the $299 specials you find in the stores

THE TAILORING

There are two versions to this suit

The standard fused canvas  is the second of only two machine sewn factory made suits that we offer. Our goal is to offer a good basic suit at a bargain price. This factory also makes suits for one of Asia’s biggest retailers and needs to meet their demanding quality standards at an affordable price.

Like all suits in this price range the jacket is a fused canvas (CLICK HERE for an explanation if the various jacket canvassing techniques) and is mostly made by machine which allows us to offer you a good suit at a bargain price.

However, there is also a full canvas version and at under $400 for a full canvas suit it’s certainly great value for money. Made in a factory setting but sewn together by seamstresses rather than machine. The factory is owned by a father and son who are both trained and experienced tailors. The father has been a tailor for over 50 years and can spot a defect in a suit from 30 metres.

They mostly make fused and half canvas suits for some of Asia’s best known high end stores but as they have two experienced tailors on hand they are happy to pull the occasional suit off the production schedule and fully canvas it for us.

 THE FABRIC

Unlike most suit companies we source our own fabrics independent of the tailor. This gives us better quality control and allows us to offer a higher quality fabric at a price equal to or better than others will charge for an inferior quality suit.

This is a nice generic suiting wool for the price. Milled in Italy and dyed in China it’s a lightweight 9 1/2 oz fabric that’s suitable for all year round wear although those in the the northern areas of Europe and Canada may need an overcoat for those extra cold days

WHERE CAN I WEAR THIS SUIT?

For the price it’s a very good suit, If you’re looking for a suit that you will only wear a few times a year but don’t want to spend a lot of money then this may be the suit for you, Look after it and you should get a few years wear out of your suit at a value for money price.

The full canvas version, although a little more, will stand up far better to more regular wear such as an office environment. However, we tend to look at these suits as a more after five or casual wear.

If you need a suit for regular wear such as work them we would recommend that you look at our hand tailored suits such as the full canvas Beijing Collection which will stand up to daily wear far better and actually work out to be cheaper in the long term.

However, if you’re someone who only wears a suit occasionally and just want a better quality suit for your money then we can highly recommend this suit. You will look far better than the $299 polyester cheap suits you buy in stores.

DELIVERY TIME

This suit is especially custom made for you so it takes around 21 days from when we accept your measurements to delivery.  The measurement process is easier than you may think and is fully explained with some tips to get better accuracy HEREHowever, if you prefer we can also make your suit in a standard off the rack size as well.

WARRANTY

Every Elite Suits is fully guaranteed against tailoring errors and most come with our No Worries Guarantee. However, suit guarantees cost money and we are trying to offer this suit at the lowest price possible so the No Worries Guarantee does not apply to this suit.

This suit is guaranteed against workmanship errors and to be made to the measurements you supply with the standard allowances for body movement, However, if the measurements supplied are not accurate you will need to have the suit altered locally yourself. This is usually a quick and inexpensive process and you will still end up with a great suit at a fantastic price.

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Take the Elite Suits Challenge

We Specialise in Full Canvas Suits

Have a look at These Articles.They discuss the various methods of canvassing a suit. While they all say it in a different way every article agrees on two major points

    1. A full canvas makes a better suit
    2. The only reason you would buy an inferior half canvas or fused suit is price

A Full Canvas Makes a Better Suit

A wool jacket needs support between the outer fabric and inner lining to give it structure otherwise it would just be a fancy cardigan.  This support is known as a canvas.  A full-canvas garment lasts longer, breathes better, loses its wrinkles quickly, and allows for more natural movement and drape because its hand-sewn layers can move independently of one another. We discuss the various canvas methods in more detail HERE

So Here’s the Challenge

The type of canvas used is without doubts one of, if not the, most important factors in determining the quality of your suit. It’s the basis for a well tailored suit and for those who understand suiting a full canvas jacket is the starting point for their suit decision. Anything less than a full canvas jacket is disregarded.

So naturally you would think that any suit website would have the method they use to canvas their suits displayed prominently in an easy to find place. However, the truth is far different.

Go to any suit site, it doesn’t matter if it’s an online company or a website for a physical suiting store or tailor. Now see how long it takes to find out what type of canvassing they use for their suits.

Tailoring companies like us who make superior quality suits will have the fact that their jackets are fully canvassed displayed prominently. They want to attract customers who want to buy a high quality suit.

Unfortunately, for the overall majority of websites it is buried deep in the fine print and many don’t mention it at all.

You So Why is it so Difficult to find?

Simple, most suit retailers outsource their production to the big suit factories in either Asia or Eastern Europe. These factories make cheap mass produced machine made suits that they churn out at the rate of hundreds if not thousands per day. All the jackets are fused or if you’re very lucky they may be half canvassed.

You Can’t Mass Produce A Full Canvas Suit

The big suit factories won’t make them as it can’t be done by machine. It means pulling the suit off the production line and having a tailor hand sew the canvas, They won’t do it as it adds significantly to the cost of production and they can’t afford to employ a tailor who can do it properly.

There are some smaller factories that are owned and operated by tailors that will do it but their tailoring fee is a lot more and the suit retailers won’t pay the extra. So rather than make a quality fully canvassed suit they offer the cheaply made fused or (if you’re very lucky) half canvassed suit however either option is still an inferior suit.

The Only Reason You Would Buy an Inferior Half Canvas or Fused Suit is Price.

It seems obvious doesn’t it. If you can buy a full canvas suit then why would you buy an inferior half canvas or even a fused suit for the same price or in many cases even more.

Yet the biggest online suit retailer sells it’s basic suit for USD$449. It’s a half canvas (but best of luck finding that information on their site). It’s factory made but overall it’s not a bad suit for the money.

At the time of writing this, our flagship Beijing suit sells at USD$425  and is

  • Fully canvassed
  • Made by real tailors not slapped together by machines in a factory
  • Made from good quality Italian fabric

Then to top it off it also comes with our comprehensive No Worries Guarantee which is far better then a maximum $75 tailoring credit

So ask yourself, which one is the better deal? A half canvassed factory made suit or a fully canvassed suit made by trained and experienced tailors?

A Full Canvas Suit Cost More to Make.

We do sell some factory made fused suits. There is a place for them. Some people just don’t wear suits but need one for a special occasion such as a wedding. They don’t want to spend  a great deal of money on a suit that’s going to spend most of it’s life sitting in a wardrobe. They just want something that’s going to fit properly and look good on the infrequent times they wear it.

So we have a factory that will make us an inexpensive suit. It’s a cheaply made suit that we can sell at a bargain price but here is something you should know

The tailoring fee on our full canvas Beijing suit is three times the tailoring fee of the factory made suit. That’s just the fee we pay the tailor to make the suit and doesn’t include the fabric or trim.

We don’t run some sort of benevolent society for impoverished tailors. We pay three times the price to get a better suit for our customers. Yet as mentioned above, we sell our full canvas suit which is hand made by experienced tailors less than others sell their factory made half canvas suits.

A higher quality suit for less. Isn’t that what true value for money is all about?

You can see our range of full canvas suits HERE

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The Beijing Collection

This is a Lot of Suit For Under $500

When we started Elite Suits we set ourselves a very important task. To be able to deliver a higher quality suit at a price most suitbuyers could afford.

Judging by the feedback from our customers it would seem that we have succeeded. I have many emails from customers expressing their surprise at the high quality of their suit for the price they paid.

When you see what you get for your money compared to suits selling elsewhere for the same price (or in many cases a lot more) you can easily see the value.

Let’s start with the canvas.  If you look at most suit retailers websites it’s almost impossible to find out what sort of canvas they use. Seeing the canvas is the foundation for any quality suit and probably the most important detail that you should want to know, this lack of disclosure is interesting to say the least. The reason they don’t tell you is that they do not want to draw attention to the fact that they are selling only fused canvas suits or if you’re very lucky perhaps a half canvas suit at best.

Most suit retailers today outsource their tailoring to suit factories in either Asia or Eastern Europe. These factories mass produce machine made suits churning hundreds of basically the same suit every day.

You can’t mass produce a full canvas suit. The canvas needs to be made and stitched into position by a tailor experienced in making full canvas suits. Unfortunately, in these days of mass production in factories, the ability to fully canvas a suit is a dying art. Most suit factories won’t do it as it means pulling the suit off the normal production line and having a highly trained tailor hand canvas the suit, Not only does it add a significant cost to the production most of the factories don’t have the staff with the experience to canvas a suit properly.

This is why you rarely see full canvas suits today and certainly a full canvas suit under $500 is a rare event indeed which is why the Beijing suit is such great value.

THE FABRIC

Over the years we have built strong relationships with our fabric merchants. As our sales continue to increase and our volume of orders grow they go out of their way to find us quality fabrics at a value for money price.

We set them the task of finding us a high grade fabric that we could use for our flagship suit. While cost was important we wanted a fabric that was a higher grade then you would normally find in a suit at this price so we were prepared to pay a little more to get the quality we wanted.

They offered us an Italian milled fabric finished and dyed in China. You should remember that Australian wool is considered the world’s best suiting fabric and over 75% of the annual Australian wool clip ends up in China after being milled at various places around the world. It’s the same for the other wool producing countries with similar climates such as New Zealand and Argentina.

This is 9oz cloth which makes it perfect for all year round wear and suitable for those in a warmer climate. Combine it with an overcoat and you have an outfit for even those freezing days for those in the colder areas.

As it’s a higher grade of cloth than you normally find in suits this price you won’t get the issues that can plague cheaper fabrics and you will find that the suit will wear better and  far longer. You can see the range of available fabrics HERE

THE TAILORING

We then went looking for tailors that could make a superior suit

The standard fused canvas version (CLICK HERE for an explanation of the various jacket canvassing techniques) is made in a factory setting. However, unlike the mass produced machine made suits, the fabric is cut by hand by an experienced cutter/patternmaker and hand sewn together by seamstresses rather than machine made. This human interaction allows for small adjustments to be made that machines simply can’t replicate. So if you’re a shape that’s slightly different to normal, the tailors can adjust the pattern to accommodate your individual requirements. This is something that can’t be done by most factories that use machines to churn out suits in a cookie cutter pattern.

The factory is owned by a father and son who are both trained and experienced tailors. The father has been a tailor for over 50 years and can spot a defect in a suit from 30 metres. They mostly make fused and half canvas suits for some of Asia’s best known high end stores and I don’t mind telling you they charge more than we could pay elsewhere but quality is worth the difference.

The full canvas version is a completely different suit. Completely hand made, the suit is cut, fully canvassed and sewn together by a highly trained tailor who makes nothing else but full canvas suits. We use a couple of different tailors to make these suits and most of them run their own tailoring business out of a small workshop,

As we are using trained tailors that handmake the suits we are able to accommodate some small changes that can’t be done in the factories that machine make suits to a cookie cutter pattern. Items such as adjustments to the lapel size or lowering the buttoning position can be done. We can also make a natural shoulder instead of a highly padded one for those of you who have squarer shoulders.

If you’re looking for a quality suit and your maximum budget is $400 than, in our opinion, the standard Beijing suit is the best value anywhere for the price. However, the extra for a full canvas suit isn’t an expense it’s an investment in good suiting. The full canvas suit will look better, drape around the body better and last far longer than the standard canvas. It’s definitely worth the extra

One quick point of clarification here. When we say “hand sewn” we mean that the suit is sewn by either a tailor or seamstress using a sewing machine rather than a fully automated  machine process as you will find in most suit factories. This is different to a fully “hand stitched” suit with is made by a tailor in the traditional manner with each stitch done by hand with a needle and thread.

WHERE CAN I WEAR THIS SUIT?

Anywhere. It’s as simple as that.  The higher grade fabric in the Beijing suit will stand up to regular wear than most other similar priced suits offered elsewhere. The full canvas version will wear extremely well and although it may cost a little more you should expect to get a far longer wear time before it needs replacement which means it will actually work out to be cheaper over the longer run.

The traditional English cut of these suits make it perfect for the office. Designed to be worn comfortably for a long time the more relaxed fit of the traditional English cut make it the ideal suit for business wear. This is a suit you can wear a couple of times a week and still expect it to last for many years and still look good. Combine a well made suit with a fashionable fabric choice and not only can you have a suit suitable for the office but still look good at an after five setting.

DELIVERY TIME

This suit is especially custom made for you so it takes around 21 days from when we accept your measurements to delivery.  The measurement process is easier than you may think and is fully explained with some tips to get better accuracy HEREHowever, if you prefer we can also make your suit in a standard off the rack size as well.

WARRANTY

The measurement process isn’t rocket science. If you have a good fitting jacket and trousers you can check your measurements against these and you can see how HERE. If the measurements are accurate then your suit should be a good fit straight out of the box. However, some customers do have their suits tweaked at their local alterations place to get that individual fit they prefer,

Every so often though we get a suit that doesn’t fit right. While there may be a tailoring error it’s fairly rare and most of the problems with fit are due to the measurements we receive not being entirely accurate.

We understand that sometimes mistakes are going to happen and so that you can order your Elite Suit with the confidence that you will have a good fitting suit we offer our No Worries Guarantee. This means if your suit simply doesn’t fit we will either pay for the suit to be altered or arrange a replacement suit at no charge.

If you read the warranty, even though there are a few terms and conditions, I think you will find it’s one of, if not the, most comprehensive warranty in the industry. No ridiculous $30 or $40 limit on alterations or reimbursement by way of store credit. If the suit simply doesn’t fit we will reimburse you in full for the alterations in cash‘or arrange for a replacement suit to be sent to you.

That should allow you to order your Elite Suit with confidence.

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Let’s Talk About Fabric

Not All Wool is the Same

This may sound obvious to most but to many people this appears to be a hard concept to grasp. Whilst I get many emails from customers expressing their surprise at the high quality of their suit fabric for the price I occasionally get an email from a customer saying that the fabric in one of their existing suits is a better quality.

A little investigating finds out that their other suit cost anywhere up to $1,000 and they paid $300 for their suit from us. While I think that the fabric in our suits represents excellent value and in many cases is better that the fabrics I see in suits selling in stores for much higher prices, I would hope that the fabric in a suit I paid say $800 for is a better quality that a suit selling for less than half that.

Before a bale of wool reaches auction the quality of the wool is graded. The higher the grade the higher price it will fetch. While the fineness of the wool in a major factor in determining the grade other qualities such as length, colour and appearance determine the end use and value of wool.

Some wool manufactures have spent years developing the quality of their wool.  Ongoing breeding of the sheep, making sure they have the right conditions including plentiful food and water so the produce a high quality fine wool. These sheep farms attract a premium price based on the reputation of their brand alone. A perfect example is Ausfine Wool. A few years ago wool was selling for around $2,000 a bale yet a single bale of Ausfine wool was sold for $247,000. Clothmakers see the Ausfine stamp as a mark of the finest quality wool and will pay far more than the average price.

“S” Numbers are Mostly Meaningless

 A “S”number relates to the thickness of the wool measured in microns. The thinner the wool the higher the “s”number. In a perfect world this would indicate a the quality of the wool and make selecting a high grade fabric much easier.

Alas, it’s not a perfect world and in many cases the “s”number actually confuses the issue. Just because a wool is thin doesn’t mean it’s good quality. It’s tells you nothing else about the wool. Length, strength, colour, and crimp are also important, with the first two particularly so. Length is critical because the longer the fibre, the stronger the yarn that can be spun from it. Strength is critical because the yarn must be twisted very tightly (hence the name high-twist fabric) to achieve a fine weave. The way in which the fabric is finished also plays an enormous role in the feel and look of a suit.

Happy Sheep Produce Better Wool.

Very few people would argue that Australia produces the world’s best suiting wool. Fine Australian merino wool is eagerly sought by the worlds best clothmakers.

Not so long ago Australia was in the grip of a prolonged drought. It was so bad that some towns and cities were in danger of running out of water including some of the biggest wool producing areas. This meant that the water the sheep normally consumed was no longer available, the grass no longer grew and some wool producers had to resort to buying food to keep the sheep fed, Furthermore the food lacked the normal moisture content the sheep were used to.

This led to the sheep becoming stressed and producing a thinner fleece. Unfortunately, while the wool may have been thinner, thus giving it a higher “s”number, it also lacked a number of other factors that go into making a high quality wool. It was coarser, shorter and more brittle thus more prone to breaking. There was also a lack of “crimp” which gives the wool a natural waviness and adds to its resilience. Furthermore, the natural oils in the fleece weren’t as prevalent.

 A few years ago the rains finally returned. The grass grew and the sheep had a good supply of natural food and water. More contented, they grew a thicker and more luxurious fleece which, although being thicker thus a lower “s”number was far higher quality.

To complicate the debate on “s” numbers even further, many wool manufacturers now use “s” more  as a marketing tool rather than an indication of the quality of the wool. Some of the ratings claimed are becoming outrageous and I’m sure that they find the thinnest strand of wool in the bale and measure that as a basis of their claimed “s”number.

I have a number of suits made from wool rated at s150’s and higher. I also have some Holland & Sherry fabrics suits where the wool is rated at s120’s or less. There is no comparison. The Holland & Sherry suits are lighter, drape better, are cooler to wear on warmer days, hold their shape better, and feel much better than their higher rated counterparts. As soon as you put on the suit you can feel the difference.

Good Quality Wool Costs More Than Poor Quality Wool.

I know that would be obvious to most of us but I can’t tell you how many times I get emails from customers about the price difference between our suit ranges. No matter how detailed an email I send them explaining that the price reflects the quality of the wool being used many of them fail to understand why a suit made from better quality wool costs more than one made from a lesser quality.

Our tailors don’t charge us more to make a suit from better wool. The tailoring fee is exactly the same. However, the wool we use to make our Milan suits cost more than five time the price as the wool in our cheapest all wool suit. Why? Because it’s a far higher quality for all the reasons mentioned above although the claimed “s”rating of the Milan wool is actually lower than the cheaper alternative which illustrates the point I made earlier about the use of “s”numbers

But It’s Actually Cheaper in the Long Run.

There is nothing wrong with buying an inexpensive suit especially when your dealing with a retailer for the first time. Our business is growing because we get repeat orders from our customer base. Once they see the quality we can deliver for the price they come back time and time again. However, one thing I try to convince customer to do when they order a second time is to buy a better suit than their first purchase.

Filling you wardrobe with suits at the cheaper end is false economy. Sure it’s cheaper to buy the suits but over time you will end up buying a lot more of them. The lesser quality of the wool the more wear and tear it will show, the quicker it will start to deteriorate and begin to lose it’s shape and the less actual wear time you will get out of it.

A fused canvas suit made from lesser quality wool will start to wear out from the first time you put it on and will need to be replaced frequently. A properly tailored full canvas suit made from a high quality wool will actually begin to look better as the canvas forms around the body with wear and the wool “slips”into shape with the suit. They will look better and last far longer than a cheaply made suit.

Vintage suits were not slapped together by machines in a factory using a fused canvas and cheap poor quality wool. They were made by hand, fully canvassed and made from a high quality wool from one of the worlds great clothmakers.

This is why our Bespoke Quality Wool suits are proving popular among discerning suitbuyers. Stitched completely by hand around a high quality full canvas with wool sourced form some of the best mills in the world these are the vintage suits of the future. Treat these suits with the respect they deserve and they will last for decades and you be able to wear it for as long as you are able to fit into it and still look as good as the day you first wore it. While more expensive than our standard suits these are actually the best value for money suits we sell.

We Source Our Own Fabrics.

The majority of suit retailers today, both online and in-store,  are nothing more than fronts for the big suit factories. They outsource all their work to the factories who provide everything including the fabric. So the retailer is nothing more than an order taker who then simply passes the order onto a factory who do everything else.  However, like everything else the factories compete for business mostly on price. Whoever can make the cheapest suit gets the business as the retailer then makes a higher profit.

There is only so much you can do to reduce your tailoring fee. Automation in using machines instead of people cuts labour costs but when competitors also uses machines that advantage disappears. So they way to make the cheapest suit is to use the cheapest fabric. So the customer ends up with a poor quality suit slapped together by machines around a fused canvas with the cheapest poorest quality wool the factory could find and the retailer or distributor pockets a bigger profit.

At Elite Suits we knew we could do it better. While we do offer two machine made suits at the bargain end, the rest of our suits are made by hand at either small boutique factories owned and operated by real tailors who produce quality suits for the high end department stores or independent skilled and experienced tailors who hand make their own suits in their own workshops. We even offer full hand stitching by specialist bespoke tailors who only make suits under contract for bespoke tailoring houses all over the world. Our suits either come with a full canvas as standard or as an option for an extra charge.

Most importantly, we buy our own wool independent of the tailor. When we make a suit we send the order along with the fabric (and with our higher end suits the lining and buttons) to the tailor who charges us a tailoring fee to make the suit. As we use actual tailors to make our suits in many cases the tailoring fee alone is more than others pay their factories for the completed suit including the fabric.

This way we have total control over the quality of the fabric used to make our customers suit. We have relationships with some great fabric merchants in both Asia and Europe including one based in Yorkshire in the UK who sources us quality fabrics from the mills in Huddersfield and Bradford which are considered the home of fine suiting wool. We buy the wool from him and import it ourselves so we can be sure that we are offering the highest quality to our customers.

The strange thing is that in most cases our prices are actually lower than our competitors who simply take an order and send it to the factory.

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Fused Canvas v Full Canvas

Take the Elite Suits Challenge.

Go to any suit retailers website any try to find out what type of canvas they use to make their suits.

The type of canvas used is one of, if not the, most important elements of your suit. A suit’s inner canvas lining is what gives the suit its shape and form. A wool jacket needs support between the outer fabric and inner lining to give it structure otherwise it would just be a fancy cardigan.  This support is known as a canvas.  A full-canvas garment lasts longer, breathes better, loses its wrinkles quickly, and allows for more natural movement and drape because its hand-sewn layers can move independently of one another

So you would think it would be easy to find the type of canvas used and it would be displayed predominantly on every suit website. Surprisingly though, apart from a handful of exceptions, it’s very difficult to find. It’s either buried deep in the small print or in many cases not disclosed at all. 

ASK YOURSELF WHY?

Why would a suit retailer hide the single most important factor that will determine the quality of your suit? The simple answer is that they don’t want you to know because what they are trying to sell you is a cheaply made, machine stitched, mass produce suit on which they will make a massive profit.

So their cheap factory produced suit is more than likely to have a fused canvas or at the very best a half canvas.

You can’t mass produce a full canvas suit. It needs a highly trained and skilled tailor to stitch the canvas into place by hand. It can’t be done on a machine. This adds to the cost and eats into their profit margin.

FUSED CANVAS SUITS

The vast majority of suit today are built around a “fused canvas”

Fused

Have a look at the picture above. A small amount of canvas, known as a chest piece, is inserted at the shoulders and armhole to provide support. The rest of the jacket, including the lapels, is coated with a synthetic substances that is then heated under pressure and bonds to the outer fabric.It’s cheap and easy to make and can be done by machine meaning that the suits can be mass produced in a factory with an absolute minimum of human involvement.

The problem is that fused jackets are unnaturally stiff and even if the fabric is wool, there is no real structure to the jacket and you won’t get the drape the way a full canvas jacket can give. Worst of all is that the glue actually degrades, this is seen in bubbling or fabric ripples. Most commonly seen when these garments are sent to the cleaners too often. The cleaners actually rush the process and the degradation becomes very noticeable over time and no tailoring magic can save your jacket at that point. Furthermore, due to the waterproof nature of the glue, your jacket also become less breathable and when paired with polyester, you have the makings of a portable sauna

HALF CANVAS SUITS

This is becoming a more popular way to overcome the many disadvantages of a fused canvas but it’s still a compromise. Once again this type of jacket can be mass produced by machine making it cheaper to make.

Half Canvas

While they us a similar chest piece the top half of the jacket is supported by a fabric interlining. It gives the jacket some structure and allows it to sit on the shoulders better but a lot of the problems with fused suits still exist. The bottom of the jacket still has no real support and you will find it tend to flap around when you move. Again there is the issue of a lack of breathability with the glue with makes the jacket hotter to wear.

FULL CANVAS SUITS

 A full canvas suit is one where a layer of canvas is lightly sewn (hand basted) to the wool fabric shell. The canvas, a long piece of woven fabric (commonly horsehair) is what helps to give the jacket its desired shape and feel.

Full Canvas

When done properly, the suit jacket will drape and move effortlessly.  As the suit is worn, the canvas will take on the body’s shape so that the fit remains perfect even after a lot of use. The canvas also helps the fabric to drape correctly and more naturally so that the suit always maintains its unique style and it will move when you do and not become stiff or unnatural. Full canvas suits also wear better over time through multiple dry cleanings since there is no concern of delamination.

The drawback of this method is that it’s the most time consuming and labour intensive. It can’t be done solely by machine and needs a skilled and experienced tailor to expertly sew the canvas into position and consequently, it’s the most expensive tailoring method.

Suit factories are reluctant to make a full canvas suits as even if they have a tailor able to fully canvas a suit available it means pulling the jacket off the production line which adds considerably to the cost of manufacture. As a result very few factories will make a full canvas suit.

SO WHICH SUIT SHOULD YOU BUY?

The only reason you would buy a fused or half canvas suit is price. As they are far cheaper to manufacture they should be less expensive to buy. Unfortunately, I have to use the word “should”as I often see machine made fused suits selling for $800 or more. Even some high end designer suits are now coming with a fused canvas. If you’re not paying far less for a fused or half canvas suit the only winner is whoever is pocketing the difference in the cost of making the suit. The customer is the loser as they get an inferior suit at a higher cost.

Salesmen will try to tell you that fused or half canvas suits are just as good as a full canvas suit. To be polite let’s just say they are being economical with the truth and the reason they say this is that they outsource the production of their suits to a factory who doesn’t make full canvas suits. If they can’t sell you one they are hardly going to tell you that they are better. Furthermore the mark-up on the actual production cost of the suit can often exceed 500% or even more.

If you’re buying online try to discover what method they use to make their suits. Good luck in finding this as the vast majority don’t mention it at all. This is strange when you consider that a full canvas construction is a strong selling point, The reason they don’t tell you is that most outsource the making of the suits to the factories and the suit is most likely to be of fused construction

They don’t tell you as they don’t want to draw your attention that you’re paying for an inferior suit. If they offered full canvas construction they would tell you.

Personally, like most people who know suits I would never buy a fused or half canvas suits. While they may be cheaper it’s false economy. A full canvas suit will last longer as it distribute tension across the  stress points, it allows the suit to “breathe” and holds up to repeated dry cleaning.

At Elite Suits we allow you the choice between a fused canvas construction at a value for money price with the option of paying a little more for the many benefits of full canvas construction.

Yet surprisingly our handmade full canvas suits are in many cases cheaper than other retailers machine made suits. As an example, the world’s number one suit retailer sells it’s essential grey suit for USD$449 in a half canvas construction. Our hand tailored full canvas Beijing suit sells for the equivalent of USD$425 (depending on exchange rates). I know which one I’d buy.

You can see our range of Full Canvas suits HERE

Of course this doesn’t extend to our higher end bespoke quality fabrics which are all fully canvassed. Fusing a beautiful cloth such as a high end Holland & Sherry should be a criminal offence with appropriate penalties imposed.

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Do You Need Custom Made Shirts?

From what I see when visiting any CBD around one third of people fit comfortably into an off the rack suit so I’d guess it would be the same for shirts. However, most people who buy an off the rack suit, even if it fits fairly close, have it altered to fit properly. How many of you have had your standard off the rack shirt altered?

I’ve seen guys with some expensive beautifully tailored bespoke suits that fit perfectly but the second they remove their jacket the illusion is ruined due to the bad fit of their shirt. It may be an expensive shirt but it’s still a standard off the rack size and it doesn’t fit nor have they had it altered.

Shirts are sized according to the neck measurement. So while you may have a 38cm (15in) neck, not that many of us have the ideally proportioned body that matches the designer profile.

Let’s start with ties. I don’t know how many people have told me that they hate wearing ties because they feel that it’s choking them. It’s also something I have read untold times in various forums. Here’s the problem guys.

If you can’t do up your collar button without feeling constricted then you’re wearing the wrong size shirt.

It is as simple as that. Your collar is the wrong size for your neck. So many men resort to leaving the collar button undone. They stand in front of a mirror, push the tie knot up so it hides the button and you can’t tell the collar is undone. It works too, for about 5 minutes at the most. Then the collar starts to spread forcing the knot to loosen and everyone can see what’s going on.

Wearing a tie with the collar unbuttoned is not relaxed, casual or hip dress. It’s just plain sloppy and unprofessional. Casual is a jacket and no tie and if you do wear a tie you need the collar buttoned. I once met up with some friends at a bar for after work drinks and everyone took off their ties. It was more than an hour before someone asked me why I still had my top shirt button still fastened. The simple answer was that I forgot and as my shirt collar fits properly I was just unaware the collar was still buttoned. That’s how a properly sized shirt should feel.

Before you go to work next stand in front of a mirror and have a good look at your shirt.

ill-fitting-shirts

Does it really fit? Does it look like the one on the left or the one on the right?

Start with the shoulders. Do the seam sit squarely at the end of the shoulders or are they halfway down your arm. This is one of my pet hates. I still do a bit of consulting in the financial services industry and one of the companies I consult to has a guy with every shirt he owns having the seams around two inches past his shoulders.

It reached the stage where I simply had to do something so I measured him up and had a properly fitting shirt made at my expense. I must not have been the only one who had reached that stage because the day after it arrived he wore it to work with strict instructions from his wife that he had to order six more shirts which he did.

Now look at the arms. Is it a slimline fit like the shirt on the right or does it look as though you have enough fabric for two shirts? Are the armholes the right size or large enough to look at though if you flapped your arms hard enough you could get enough uplift to fly away? Note that before you start playing around with higher armholes on your custom made suits you need to have shirts that fit properly here otherwise they will bunch up under your suit and be highly uncomfortable.

What about the chest and mid section? To get the right collar measurement sometimes you need to go up a size. Great the collar measurement may now be fine but the rest of the shirt is so big it just engulfs you leading to the male version of the muffin top

Male Muffin Top

This is where the shirt is so big around the waist that no matter what you do the excess fabric gathers above the belt. Or, if you’re like me and have a well pronounced middle age spread, you can get the other effect.

Too Small

where the shirt is so tight around the waist it seems as though the buttons will pop like projectiles at any minute (especially when you sit down) or the buttons open without you realising it and you’re walking around with your large belly inadvertently exposed when it’s the last thing a big man wants.

This Is What a Properly Tailored Custom Made Shirt Should Look Like

Well Fitted Shirt

See how it just fits everywhere and tucks nice and neatly into the trousers. Slim and tapered around the waist but with enough room for body movements so the shirt never feels tight. Look at how the collar sits comfortably around the neck without pinching. We should all aspire to have our shirts fit like this.

It’s true though that this is obviously a male model with a well proportioned body and quite a few of us (definitely including myself) well never look this good in shirt. However all the problems discussed above (and a number of others) can be fixed by a properly tailored custom made shirt.

Elite Suits has a range of custom tailored shirts starting at less than $60 each

With prices starting at $89 for a single shirt and if you buy two for $178 we will add the third at no extra charge. That works out at just over $59 for a fully custom tailored shirt.

Not only is it tailored to fit but you can choose exactly how you want your shirt to look. Choose the type of collar cuffs and many other styling options

In our shirt range we have over 1,250 fabric colours and patterns and four grades of cotton so there is a shirt for everyone. Read more about them HERE

You can see the range of shirts HERE

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Our New Shirting Range

Over 1,250 Different Fabrics and Four Grades of Cotton and Starting at under $60 per Shirt.

There has to be something there for everyone. The first question you need to ask is do you need to have your shirts custom made. Perhaps you may find your answer HERE.

Like wool, China also has an insatiable appetite for high quality cotton. Not only is around 25% of the world’s cotton grown in China making them by far the world’s biggest producer, but they also import a similar amount meaning around half the world’s annual cotton production passes through China.

We have a  fabric merchant who has a thorough knowledge of the Chinese cotton industry and has sourced us some great quality shirting fabric at extremely good prices. This allows us to offer our customers a range of custom made shirts at the value for money prices that Elite Suits is known for all over the world

I often have guys tell me about how they have all their shirts custom made and would only ever consider an English or Italian cotton. The problem with that is neither England or Italy grow cotton as it’s far too cold. Another little secret about cotton is that “Egyptian Cotton” doesn’t necessarily mean it comes from Egypt. It’s not a geographical term. The phrase “Egyptian Cotton” is an industry term for the fibres of the gossypium barbadense and gossypium hirsutum cotton plants which actually originated in South America. At less than a million bales a year, Egypt is a relatively small cotton producer at less than 1%of the annual global market and the vast majority of  “Egyptian Cotton” products on sale today comes from either China or the USA.

So their is a fair chance that the Italian, English or Egyptian cotton used to make their shirts was either grown or spun in China, tagged with a fancy label and marked up 1000%

There are four ranges in the new cotton shirting each is a superior grade to the previous. Click on the name to see the colours and patterns available.

Don’t forget these shirts are custom made. You can download the measurement and order forms at the bottom of the page HEREThere are three ways you can supply your measurements and it’s far easier than you may think

  1. Body Measurements
  2. Measure your best fitting shirt
  3. Select a standard size

The order form shows the styling options so you can have your shirt made just the way you want it. Choose your collar style, cuffs, pocket, placket and fit style. You can also have contrasting collars and cuffs in the fabric of your choice and even have them monogrammed at no extra cost.

Our Great Shirt Offer

Each of the range has a standard price for a single shirt.

Buy two shirts we will add one more bonus shirt free making three shirts for the price of two.

Buy four shirts and get two bonus shirts  making six in total

Buy six shirts and not only will we send you three bonus shirts but we will even add another making it ten in total for the price of six. The Beijing shirts start at $89 each so buy six for $534 and we will send you ten shirts in total making it only $53.40 each. That’s an incredible price for high quality custom made shirts.

If you buy the package of six or ten (including the bonus shirts) we will offer you the option of having one shirt made and delivered to test the fit. This will allow you the chance to tweak  your measurements so the rest of the shirts fit even better.

In the extremely rare event you make a mistake in your measurements and the first shirt doesn’t come close to fitting, after we sort out the measurements not only will we send the rest of the order we will even replace the original shirt in the same fabric. So order with confidence that all the shirts will fit

The Fabrics

A brief description of the available fabrics follows. If you click on each heading it will open the fabric images for that range

1. Beijing Shirts

These are my guilty little secret. As you can imagine I have access to some of the worlds best shirting fabrics yet I own quite a few of these shirts. I’m not the only one either, I have had many customers come back time and time again to buy these shirts. Why? OK while it may be our basic range of cotton it’s quite good for the money. 120gsm cotton blended with factory produced silk makes it a very lightweight shirt and most importantly easy to take care of. While I wouldn’t say they never need ironing, quite often I can take these out of the dryer and wear them as is. At most they need a quick light press just to freshen them up. There are over 600 colours and patterns and at only $89 each they are cheap enough to replace every couple of years and if you buy two for $178 you get the third shirt at no extra charge bring the cost down to just under $60 per shirt. That’s ridiculously cheap for a custom made shirt.

2. Shanghai Shirts

A thicker, heavier and more durable cotton at 130gsm and again blended with factory made silk to give that softer feel to the fabric. A superior grade to the Beijing shirts and if you buy three it’s only $10 per shirt extra which is well worth the money.

3. Yangtse River Cotton

If you could custom design a part of the world specifically to grow cotton what you ended up with would not be too different from the Yangtse River Basin. A rich fertile soil in a low river delta with an optimal mix of sunlight and annual rainfall with the river water available for any needed irrigation.

As a result, this area produces extremely high quality cotton used in some of the finest shirts the world over. A lot of the properties are smaller farms that have been in the same family for generations and it’s this traditional farming combined with modern technology and agricultural methods that allows for a longer and thinner fibre making a higher quality cotton.

At $248 for three shirts that’s still a fair chunk of change out of $100 per shirt and great value for cotton of this quality.

4. Giza Cotton

Once again grown in the Yangtse River Delta, this extra fine cotton is made from the fibres of the gossypium barbadense plant which produces what is known as Egyptian cotton. However to avoid confusion the manufacturers have called this Giza Cotton which defines the extra long threads and silky feel of the cotton without misrepresenting the origin.

This is extra high quality cotton with  a thread count of 2 x 100 or 2 x 110 which produces a beautiful shirt with a silky feel and the strength to be able to be worn for years, You can easily pay over $200  for a shirt of this quality so at just under $100 each if you buy three at a time this is a real bargain.

Four different cottons and over 1,250 colours and pattern give you the choice to design the shirt you want to wear.

You can see the full range of Elite Suits shirting HERE

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Measurement Tips Using Existing Garments

I can’t emphasise enough the advantage of using existing garments as the basis for your measurements. Even in some of the best bespoke tailors they will have you try on “house suits” and make the necessary adjustments.

If you get the lengths right then at most all your suit should need after delivery is a slight tweak to achieve the desired fit.

An existing suit jacket will help you determine a number of measurements. If you don’t already own a suit jacket then a good fitting shirt will suffice.

You can download the finished measurement guide which clearly shows where the measurements are taken (Note: it has been bought to my attention that parts of the form appear garbled in preview mode in some web browsers, e.g. Chrome. However, when you download the form it shows perfectly in PDF readers).

 The shoulder is a critical measurement, get this right and you are well on the way to a great fitting jacket.

Measure from the seam between the shoulder and the sleeve  to a point 1cm below the centre of the back of the collar then back down to the other shoulder seam. This will result in the tape being slightly curved

Now do the shoulder seams sit right at the end of your shoulders? If not make the necessary adjustments to your measurements. If they need to come in half a centimetre each then adjust the measurement by 1cm.

Sleeve length – Measure from the seam where the sleeve joins the shoulder to the end of the sleeve. I normally measure to just past where the wrist becomes the hand. If you bend your wrist inwards it will form a V shape. The middle of the “V” is a good length f0r a suit sleeve

Jacket Length – Measure from the seam on top of the shoulder as close as possible to the collar down the front to the end of the jacket. A shirt can also be used for this measurement.  An accepted jacket length is equal to the knuckles when the hand is resting at the side which on most people will also be around level with the bottom of the crotch of a pair of good fitting dress trousers

Back Jacket Length –  Measure from directly underneath the collar to the end of the jacket. It should be measured to the same point as the front.

You can use these on the body measurement order form then all you need are the torso measurements and they  can be easier then it may seem. Simply hold one finger over the part to be measured and get someone to run a tape around. So for the chest simply hold one finger at chest level and get someone to run a tape around the body. The tape should be level and touching the body (and the finger) all the way round without being pulled tight. Then simply run the tape down to the waist, belt level and hips.. Do the same at the thickest part of the bicep and at the wrist

Alternatively, you can also use your suit jacket (not a shirt this time as they are cut completely different) to obtain your jacket chest, waist and hips measurements.

Do up all the buttons on the jacket and lay it perfectly flat on a hard surface. Measure from one edge of the jacket to the other just under the armholes. Do the same at the narrowest part of the waist and again 15cm (6in) above the bottom of the jacket. They are the half-finished chest, waist and hip measurements.

Now you can adjust these to improve the fit of your new jacket however you need to remember that the measurements above are half-finished. So, if you want your jacket to be 3cm bigger at the waist you need to adjust the waist measurement by half that or 1.5cm.

For the sleeve width, all you need do is  make sure the sleeve is perfectly flat and measure from one side to the other at just under the armpit and again at the cuff.

The back chest isn’t critical but can assist. Lay the jacket perfectly flat face down and measure across the back that the middle of the arm seams.

If you follow the instructions above we now have enough to make you a good fitting jacket.

The trousers are fairly easy. All you need is your best fitting pair of dress trousers (not jeans)

Do up all buttons and zips and lay the trousers perfectly flat on a hard surface.

Measure from one side of the waistband to the other. Then measure from one side of the trousers to the other at a point 2cm above the bottom of the zip.

Crotch  –  Measure from the very top of the waistband at the front to where the four seams join under the crotch then measure from the very top of the waistband at the back to the same place and add the two measurements together.

Inseam – Measure from where the four seams join under the crotch following the seam to the end of the leg

Outseam – Measure from the top of the waistband at the side and follow the seam to the end of the leg 

Now fold the trousers flat as if you were going to hang them up, lay them flat on a hard surface (I now fold the top leg over and measure the bottom leg) measure from one side of the leg to the other at the following points

  1. Directly at the bottom of the crotch
  2. At the approximate knee
  3. At the cuffs

There are the finished trouser measurements.

If you have done all the above and prefer to send the finished measurement instead of the body measurements you can download the order form from here

If you have any trouble understanding any of the above feel free to send me a message for clarification.

 

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