From what I see when visiting any CBD around one third of people fit comfortably into an off the rack suit so I’d guess it would be the same for shirts. However, most people who buy an off the rack suit, even if it fits fairly close, have it altered to fit properly. How many of you have had your standard off the rack shirt altered?
I’ve seen guys with some expensive beautifully tailored bespoke suits that fit perfectly but the second they remove their jacket the illusion is ruined due to the bad fit of their shirt. It may be an expensive shirt but it’s still a standard off the rack size and it doesn’t fit nor have they had it altered.
Shirts are sized according to the neck measurement. So while you may have a 38cm (15in) neck, not that many of us have the ideally proportioned body that matches the designer profile.
Let’s start with ties. I don’t know how many people have told me that they hate wearing ties because they feel that it’s choking them. It’s also something I have read untold times in various forums. Here’s the problem guys.
If you can’t do up your collar button without feeling constricted then you’re wearing the wrong size shirt.
It is as simple as that. Your collar is the wrong size for your neck. So many men resort to leaving the collar button undone. They stand in front of a mirror, push the tie knot up so it hides the button and you can’t tell the collar is undone. It works too, for about 5 minutes at the most. Then the collar starts to spread forcing the knot to loosen and everyone can see what’s going on.
Wearing a tie with the collar unbuttoned is not relaxed, casual or hip dress. It’s just plain sloppy and unprofessional. Casual is a jacket and no tie and if you do wear a tie you need the collar buttoned. I once met up with some friends at a bar for after work drinks and everyone took off their ties. It was more than an hour before someone asked me why I still had my top shirt button still fastened. The simple answer was that I forgot and as my shirt collar fits properly I was just unaware the collar was still buttoned. That’s how a properly sized shirt should feel.
Before you go to work next stand in front of a mirror and have a good look at your shirt.
Does it really fit? Does it look like the one on the left or the one on the right?
Start with the shoulders. Do the seam sit squarely at the end of the shoulders or are they halfway down your arm. This is one of my pet hates. I still do a bit of consulting in the financial services industry and one of the companies I consult to has a guy with every shirt he owns having the seams around two inches past his shoulders.
It reached the stage where I simply had to do something so I measured him up and had a properly fitting shirt made at my expense. I must not have been the only one who had reached that stage because the day after it arrived he wore it to work with strict instructions from his wife that he had to order six more shirts which he did.
Now look at the arms. Is it a slimline fit like the shirt on the right or does it look as though you have enough fabric for two shirts? Are the armholes the right size or large enough to look at though if you flapped your arms hard enough you could get enough uplift to fly away? Note that before you start playing around with higher armholes on your custom made suits you need to have shirts that fit properly here otherwise they will bunch up under your suit and be highly uncomfortable.
What about the chest and mid section? To get the right collar measurement sometimes you need to go up a size. Great the collar measurement may now be fine but the rest of the shirt is so big it just engulfs you leading to the male version of the muffin top
This is where the shirt is so big around the waist that no matter what you do the excess fabric gathers above the belt. Or, if you’re like me and have a well pronounced middle age spread, you can get the other effect.
where the shirt is so tight around the waist it seems as though the buttons will pop like projectiles at any minute (especially when you sit down) or the buttons open without you realising it and you’re walking around with your large belly inadvertently exposed when it’s the last thing a big man wants.
This Is What a Properly Tailored Custom Made Shirt Should Look Like
See how it just fits everywhere and tucks nice and neatly into the trousers. Slim and tapered around the waist but with enough room for body movements so the shirt never feels tight. Look at how the collar sits comfortably around the neck without pinching. We should all aspire to have our shirts fit like this.
It’s true though that this is obviously a male model with a well proportioned body and quite a few of us (definitely including myself) well never look this good in shirt. However all the problems discussed above (and a number of others) can be fixed by a properly tailored custom made shirt.
Elite Suits has a range of custom tailored shirts starting at less than $60 each
With prices starting at $89 for a single shirt and if you buy two for $178 we will add the third at no extra charge. That works out at just over $59 for a fully custom tailored shirt.
Not only is it tailored to fit but you can choose exactly how you want your shirt to look. Choose the type of collar cuffs and many other styling options
In our shirt range we have over 1,250 fabric colours and patterns and four grades of cotton so there is a shirt for everyone. Read more about them HERE
You can see the range of shirts HERE