The Tailoring of AUSFINE suits

To discover the superb luxury  of Ausfine Wool – The Best Merino Wool in the World – I recommend you read THIS POST FIRST

I can’t think of an industry more able to be outsourced than tailoring a suit. For a start it labour intensive. A fully hand stitched suit can take up to 80 hours to make and in most western cultures, labour and other costs make it impossible to use traditional tailoring methods to make a suit that can be sold at an affordable price.

It’s not only labour costs either. Think how expensive real estate is in the major western cities. The cost of space in the retail heart of cities such as  London, Paris, New York, Sydney and even Hong Kong is prohibitively expensive and the growth of shopping malls such as Westfield has only added to the cost pressures of obtaining space in high customer traffic areas.

Tailors are business people and like owners of businesses everywhere they are always looking at methods to cut costs. The advantages of outsourcing to Asia are simply to great to ignore. Apart from the obvious and well known far lower cost of labour, there is also the significantly lower price of real estate. Furthermore, if you’re not actually selling there then there is no reason why you need to have your workshop in the main commercial district so you can establish yourself in the even lower cost industrial areas thus making it even more attractive.

The materials needed to make a suit are able to be easily fitted in a small courier parcel making shipping between countries cost effective and it’s not unusual for the tailors to make to suit to “baste” stage and ship it back for an initial fitting and the original tailor to again ship the suit back to the Asian workshop for it to be finished. A hundred bucks of courier charges is nothing compared to the savings to be made by outsourcing.

Asian port cities such as Shanghai have a history of fine tailoring dating back to the 1800’s as British tailors moved to the far east in search of new opportunities bringing with them the skills and expertise developed by the centuries of fine English tailoring as we see on Savile Row today.

It was the Hong Kong fashion houses that first realised the opportunities of outsourcing to these port cities as the expense of the continued rise of space in the Hong Kong main commercial areas started to wear heavy on their cost base. With their history as a British colony combined with their traditional ties with China as well as the obvious geographical advantage, it made perfect sense to shift the cost of their tailoring workshops to the less expensive Chinese mainland.

As the far east opened more and more to western investment, other countries soon followed. While some, including those with a presence on London’s famous Savile Row, entered into into joint ventures with Asian tailoring houses, many new enterprises were established to meet the growing demand from bespoke tailors all over the world looking to outsource their tailoring services to the less costly Asian cities.

As it’s imperative that these Asian tailoring houses remain up to date with the latest tailoring techniques and styles from all over the world, they outsource their training requirements back to the western tailoring houses. Young Asian apprentice tailors now spend up to a year overseas learning their craft directly from the big tailoring houses in London’s Savile Row, Paris, Milan and other traditional tailoring cities. Furthermore, the western tailors visit their Asian counterparts for training sessions three or four times a year.

This allows them to not only be certain the suits made are of the highest quality but also ensure the Asian tailoring companies are fully trained in both the traditional and latest tailoring techniques and styles. This allows for the highest quality tailoring standards from the best trained and most experienced tailors and the only difference between the tailor sitting at a workbench in Savile Row or one in Shanghai is that it’s less expensive to have him in Shanghai.

These Asian tailoring companies make nothing else but bespoke suits of the highest standard. They are experienced in using the finest quality wool and generally only employ those with at least ten years tailoring experience with many having worked for the same company for decades thus having thirty years or more experience in high end tailoring. The result of this is that suit you paid $3,000 or more for from your local bespoke tailor is more than likely tailored in Asia than the back room of the store.

Here at Elite Suits we have four of these Asian tailoring houses that make high end bespoke quality suits for us under contract. Centred around the port cities of Shanghai and Hangzhou, these companies specialise in making the highest standard suits for bespoke tailors all over the world. In my recent visit I had the opportunity to inspect the quality of many finished suits and seeing the various tailoring houses labels on the jackets I realised that Elite Suits was in some very distinguished company and are offering our customers suits made to a world class standard.

Like all our tailors their ability to receive ongoing business from Elite Suits is contingent on them producing suits to the highest standards. Our business to them is extremely valuable and accordingly they ensure that any suit they make for us meets the quality we demand for our customers.

You can be confident that the tailoring of your Ausfine suit will be done to the absolute highest standard. With all external stitching done by hand and the only machine assisted stitching done on the internal seams for added durability these are beautiful suits. Tailored in the traditional manner with an experienced tailor making 4,000 or more individual hand made stitches, these suits can involve up to 80 hours in workmanship in order to turn out a suit that is equal to those made anywhere in the world today.

With the full handmade horsehair canvas and trimmings imported from Europe, the best merino in the world and tailoring standard equal to the best anywhere, this is a limited opportunity to obtain a true luxury suit at a never to be repeated price.

Rockstars and Royalty?

We have one particular tailor that uses the absolute best of everything when it comes to making a suit. No scrimping to save a few dollars here. You pay for the absolute top quality or have the suit tailored elsewhere. The canvas is imported from a firm in England that has been making hand made horsehair suit canvas for over a hundred years. The thread is cotton from a mill in Bradford and the buttons from Italy.

In trying to explain to a customer why he should pay the extra money for his suit I told him that this was the suit that Rockstars and Royalty buy. While what I meant was these persons are among those that can afford to pay for suits of the highest quality, the name stuck and despite it’s flippancy we continue to use it.

If the extra cost fits within the budget I highly recommend the Rockstars and Royalty package. I had both my Ausfine suits made here and I can safely tell you that they are true works of art and tailoring at it’s absolute best

What About Measurements?

It’s a lot easier than you may think. We explain how to obtain the standard measurements HERE.

However, I would be rather surprised if you were buying an Ausfine suit as your first suit. It takes time to appreciate a suit of this extremely high quality and I would suggest that Ausfine customers will be rather discerning suit buyers who already have a number of fine suits in their wardrobe and most likely one or two bespoke suits.

Should this be the case, it’s easy to measure your existing best fitting suit and our highly experienced bespoke tailors will be able to make your Ausfine suit exactly the same size. Just download the finished measurement guide by clicking on the button below (Note: it has been bought to my attention that parts of the form appear garbled in preview mode in some web browsers, e.g. Chrome. However, when you download the form it shows perfectly in PDF readers)

Read the instructions carefully and measure as illustrated. I can assure you it’s fairly easy. Then download the order form by clicking the following button and enter the measurements and return the form.

That’s it. All done and we have an accurate suit size so you can be sure that your new Ausfine suit will be a great fit.

However, a number of clients who buy our high end suitings have an old favourite suit that they wish to replace. Rather than measure it themselves we are able to send it to our tailors who will make an exact replacement and if you wish you can also update the styling. While there is a small fee of $75 to cover the extra shipping both ways, it’s a perfect way of upgrading to a new stylish suit.

No matter how you supply the sizing, body measurements or finished or sending your suit, your new Ausfine suit is covered by our No Worries Guarantee so there is never any risk of ending up with a suit that doesn’t fit. This allows you to buy your new Ausfine suit with full confidence that not only are you buying a true luxury suit but you won’t have any problems with the finished fit.

You can see the fabric selection HERE

And the range of suits available HERE

Want to know more? Send us a message here.


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