High End Tailoring

Almost Bespoke Tailoring.

Here at Elite Suits we have four Asian tailoring houses that make high end bespoke quality suits for us under contract. Centred around the port cities of Shanghai and Hangzhou, these companies specialise in making the highest standard suits for bespoke tailors all over the world. In my recent visit I had the opportunity to inspect the quality of many finished suits and seeing the various tailoring houses labels on the jackets I realised that Elite Suits was in some very distinguished company and are offering our customers suits made to a world class standard.

These Asian tailoring companies make nothing else but bespoke suits of the highest standard. They are experienced in using the finest quality wool and generally only employ those with at least ten years tailoring experience with many having worked for the same company for decades thus having thirty years or more experience in high end tailoring. The result of this is that suit you paid $3,000 or more for from your local bespoke tailor is more than likely tailored in Asia than the back room of the store.

Like all our tailors their ability to receive ongoing business from Elite Suits is contingent on them producing suits to the highest standards. Our business to them is extremely valuable and accordingly they ensure that any suit they make for us meets the quality we demand for our customers.

You can be confident that the tailoring of your suit will be done to the absolute highest standard. With all external stitching done by hand and the only machine assisted stitching done on the internal seams for added durability these are beautiful suits. Tailored in the traditional manner with an experienced tailor making 4,000 or more individual hand made stitches, these suits can involve up to 80 hours in workmanship in order to turn out a suit that is equal to those made anywhere in the world today.

With the full handmade horsehair canvas and trimmings imported from Europe, the best merino in the world and tailoring standard equal to the best anywhere, this is an opportunity to obtain a true luxury suit at a price far below what you will pay elsewhere

Rockstars & Royalty.

OK let’s start with the name. In trying to explain to a customer why he should pay the extra money for his suit I told him that this was the suit that Rockstars and Royalty buy. While what I meant was these persons are among those that can afford to pay for suits of the highest quality, the name stuck and despite its flippancy we continue to use it. Life is too short to be overly serious all the time.

We have one particular tailor that uses the absolute best of everything when it comes to making a suit. No scrimping to save a few dollars here. You pay for the absolute top quality or have the suit tailored elsewhere. The canvas is imported from a firm in England that has been making hand made horsehair suit canvas for over a hundred years. The thread is cotton from a mill in Bradford and the buttons from Italy.

If you ordered a $10,000 fully bespoke suit from a Savile Row tailor these are the exact same trimmings they would use.

If the extra cost fits within the budget I highly recommend the Rockstars and Royalty package. I had all my high quality fabric suits made here and I can safely tell you that they are true works of art and tailoring at its absolute best.

You can buy from us with confidence that you can decide on exactly the quality of the suit you wish to buy instead of relying solely on the single option offered by most other retailers and just hoping it turns out OK.

If you want any further information, or perhaps some help in deciding what suit is best for you,  please Send us a message here. We are only too happy to help.

Posted in Tailoring | Leave a comment

Finished Measurements

If you do it carefully, using existing clothing to either determine a set of finished measurements or check your supplied body measurements should ensure your suit is a great fit even on your first try.

We may have linked you here in order for you to check your measurements before we make your suit. Since we have implemented this checking system we have virtually eliminated measuring errors. So, if you take a little time to have a good look at the images and read the instructions thoroughly and follow them carefully, your new suit should fit well straight out of the box.

OK, the first thing we need to do is download the Finished Measurement Guide.

Now for the order form

OK let have a look at what we need to measure on the suit jacket

Finished Jacket

Find your best fitting jacket, do up all the buttons and lay the jacket perfectly flat on a hard surface.

 

 

 

 

The first thing we need to measure is the chest

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

All you need to do is measure from underneath one sleeve to the same point on the other side. You can measure either the front or back but make sure you measure from the very edge of the fabric on one side to the very edge on the other. Look at the above pictures, there is no fabric outside the area being measured

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

If you click on the pictures you will see a larger image (use your browser’s back button to return?

Now let’s move down the jacket to get the jacket waist measurement

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Find the narrowest part of the waist and measure form the very edge of the fabric to the same point on the other side.

Once again there is no fabric outside the area being measured

Next is the hip measurement

 

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Simply measure the same way you did the chest and waist this time 15 cm (6 in) above the bottom of the jacket.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Again you can measure either the front or the back of the jacket.

For most people, unless your exceptionally thin or large, all three of these measurements should be between 40 cm (16 in) and 60 cm (24 in)

We  now want the front length of the jacket

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Measure from the top of the jacket just under the collar straight down the front of the jacket to the very bottom of the jacket

Back Length.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

This is a really easy one. Measure from directly underneath the centre of the collar to the very bottom of the jacket.

The shoulder is an important measurement to get right. It will allow the jacket to sit properly.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

It’s best if you can get someone to help you with this one. Put the jacket on and get your helper to measure the back from the shoulder seam on the top of the jacket on one side to a point 1 cm below the centre of the back of the collar then to the shoulder seam on the top of the jacket on the other side. This will result in a slight curve in the measuring tape.

If you don’t have a helper hang the jacket on a suit hanger and measure as above.

The bicep can be a difficult one to get right. First thing is to make sure the jacket you’re measuring is still comfortable when the arm is flexed.

Finished Bicep

Unfortunately, I can find a good image of a suit bicep measurement so we have used a shirt instead but the principle is the same. Measure the bicep from one edge to the other just below the sleeve. It’s important that the sleeve is perfectly flat so you get the full measurement.

Finished Bicep (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

The sleeve is another fairly easy one

Finished Sleeve (2)

All you need to do is measure from the shoulder seam to the end of the sleeve

Finished Sleeve

 

 

 

 

 

 

The cuff is simple

Finished Cuff (2)

Simply lay the sleeve perfectly flat and measure straight across the cuff

 

 

 

Last is the back width

Finished Back Width

Make sure the jacket is fully buttoned and measure from the middle of the sleeve seam on one side to the same place on the other side

 

 

Suit Back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There’s the jacket done. Trousers are easy to get right.

Find your best fitting pair of dress trousers,They don’t need to be the matching trousers to the jacket you just measured but not jeans. Do up the zips and buttons and lay the trousers face up perfectly flat on a hard surface

First do the trouser waist

Finished trouser Waist

All you need to do is measure the waistband from one side to the other

 

 

 

Finished Waist (2)

Yes it is as simple as it looks

 

 

 

For the hips

Finished Trouser Hips (2)

 

 

 

 

Finished trouser HipsMeasure from where the bottom of the pocket meets the outseam to the same place on the other side.

 

 

 

 

 

For the outseam, fold the trousers as though you were about to hang them up. The legs are folded with the crease at the end and the seams in the middle

Outseam (Finished)

 

all you need to do is measure from the very top of the waistband straight down to the bottom of the leg

Now fold the top leg up and measure the bottom leg as follows

Inseam (2)

Inseam – measure form the bottom of the crotch down to the end of the leg

 

 

thighs

Thigh – Measure the width of the leg immediately below the crotch

cuffs

 

 

 

 

Trouser cuff – Measure the width of the leg at the very bottom

knees

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Knee – Measure the width of the leg at the halfway point

 

 

Now I take two measurements to get the crotch

Crotch Part 1

Measure from the very top of the waistband at the front to the point where the four leg seams meet at the bottom of the crotch

 

 

 

Crotch Part 2Now measure from the very top of the waistband at the back to the point where the four leg seams meet at the bottom of the crotch

 

Add those two measurements together and you have the crotch measurement

 

 

 

So now you should have a full set of finished measurements, Send them to us exactly as you took them.

Now Here’s How to Customise the Measurements to get an Even Better Fit

Put on the jacket and trousers you just measured. Can something be changed to improve the final fit. Perhaps you have put on a little weight since you bought them so we can increase the waist measurements and the hips if need be.

Maybe the trousers could be a little more slimline so we can reduce the knee and cuff measurement so the legs taper better.

Are the shoulder seams sitting squarely at the end of the shoulders?

Don’t change the measurements above. Instead tell us what needs to be adjusted in the email.

Follow the instructions on this page and your new garments will look good without any alterations

 

 

 

Posted in Measurements | Leave a comment

Bespoke Quality English Fabric Suits

We don’t spend our money on flashy and expensive to run websites or massive marketing campaigns or run a large staff.

We’d rather run a very low cost business and put our money into finding the best possible quality suits for our customers. No flashy website and expensive marketing campaigns. We simply let the quality of our suits speak for themselves. Our strategy is to give customers as much information as possible about the suit they want to buy and let them make the decision about exactly what they want.

It works too as more and more people discover the value they can get for their suiting dollar and May is looking to be our best month ever for our top end suits. It started with a customer buying a four piece Ausfine Suit. Say what you want but I don’t think too many of these online suit retailers and their flashy expensive websites are selling $2,500 suits. Most of them sell the cheap machine sewn fused canvas factory made suits, The ones we sell for $249 except they put a massive markup on them to pay for all their costs so they end up selling them for twice the price.

I delivered another Clissold suit this week which I was lucky enough to actually get a look at before it went to the customer so let’s have a look what he received for his money

IMG_0530

The suit is a two piece suit from the Clissold Collection in our “Almost Bespoke”tailoring package

  • Two Button
  • Notch collar
  • Flap Pockets
  • Double vent
  • Full canvas construction

The customer is a little smaller than the mannequin so it was a bit of a stretch to get the suit around it (plus my poor skills as a photographer have to also be taken into account).

Clissold 388

The fabric is the 388 Grey with a purple rope stripe. This is an s130’s lightweight 275 gsm wool made by Clissolds in Yorkshire England.

Part of the Holland & Sherry group they produce a number of the H&S lines as well as their own Clissolds branded cloth. They have been making fine England suiting wool at their Bradford mill since 1910 and are a favourite of bespoke tailors not only on Savile Row but all around the world.

We imported the wool ourselves directly from the UK so you can be sure it’s genuine top grade English suiting wool.

IMG_0538

A copper bemberg lining.

There are a number of linings that are called bemberg but are really a blend.  We imported this from Japan and it’s made by Asahi Kasei in Japan who is one of only two companies worldwide that produce the cupro fibers that go into genuine bemberg.

So when we say the lining is 100% top quality bemberg you can be sure that’s what you’re getting.

All our almost bespoke suits come standard with two internal chest pockets, a pen pocket and a pocket for your mobile phone.

IMG_0537

American buffalo horn buttons. Four working buttons with the last two in a contrast thread.

You should remember that both our “Almost Bespoke” and “Rockstar & Royalty” tailoring packages are all full stitched by hand by specialist tailors that only make suits for bespoke tailoring houses all over the world.

A highly trained and experienced tailor at a workbench with a needle and thread making over 4,000 individual handmade stitches for every suit. This is traditional tailoring at it’s best and how tailors have been making suits for hundreds of years.

It’s as far away as you can get from the mass produced factory made fused canvas suits sold by most of our competitors,  not only online,  but in many so-called tailor shops as well.

No machine sewing here. Even the buttonholes are stitched by hand.

IMG_0532

As is the working lapel buttonhole also done in  contrast thread.

With both fabric and tailoring of world’s best standard this suit will last for decades if you treat it right. Unlike the cheap machine sewn factory made fused canvas suits which will start to deteriorate from day one, suits of this high standard will improve with wear as the special lightweight full canvas used moulds itself to your body shape.

Suits made to this high quality are the vintage suits of the future and it’s what attracted the customer to the package. He has a number of suits (many of them full bespoke from English tailors) so he can rotate them regularly, So, having a suit that will last as long as he can fit into it was an appealing feature.

However, he also asked for one more special feature

IMG_0542

One of the problem with suits that last for basically forever is that as you get older you tend to grow out of them. This is something I can personally attest to. I have some beautiful suits still in excellent condition after many years that I simply can no longer fit into.

In order to help offset this issue the customer requested that the trousers have elasticised tabs at the side so the waist will expand as the customer’s waist does. A smart idea in my opinion

So does the suit fit? Of course it does. The customer went for the Milan special available to any customer that orders one of our English Bespoke Quality Wool packages. The Milan suit was a good fit so we tweaked the measurements slightly so this one will fit even better, This is a process that we have found to be extremely successful in getting great fitting suits and the customer ends up with two excellent quality suits at fantastic value for money.

The Price? $999 Australian or around $935 US dollars at the current exchange rates. I would suggest that’s about a third of what you would pay at your local tailoring shop for a suit of this extremely high quality.

Add the Milan Package Deal and you’re looking at around $1,130 US dollars for the two suits or $565 each. Seeing I just had a customer who paid over $700 for one factory made fused canvas suit I think it’s excellent value for two high standard hand made full canvas suits.

Customers who order one of our Bespoke Quality English Fabric Suits have the highest return rate rate of all our customers. Once they see what value they can get for their suiting dollar they come back and order again and again.

This customer was no different. We delivered the suit on Thursday and the very next day he emailed me saying he now wants to buy two more.  He now wants to try the “Rockstars and Royalty”tailoring package and is considering an Ausfine Suit.

Posted in Tailoring | Leave a comment

A Tale of Two Suits

Which One Would You Buy?

Let’s compare two suits and see which one you would rather buy. Let’s start with “Suit A”

  • It’s a mass produced factory made suit done on a cookie cutter production line that churns out the same suit over and over again
  • They claim it’s a half canvas suit. I’ve pulled one apart and would say it’s actually a fused canvas but as it makes no real difference to the story let’s accept it’s a half canvas
  • It comes with a guarantee of up to $75 in alterations or a free remake if necessary

Now Let’s have a look at “Suit B”

  • It’s hand made by a trained tailor with over 20 years experience who only makes full canvas suits
  • It has a completely hand made full canvas stitched by hand
  • It comes with a comprehensive guarantee that will either pay the full cost of alterations or a free remake if necessary. This is an important point in that it’s easier for someone to alter the suit while they have the customer in front of them for a fitting rather then simply send in another set of measurements to have the suit remade and hoping that the replacement suit fits better.

I don’t think you need to be Einstein to realise that Suit B is going to be the better suit. Have a look at These ArticlesThey discuss the attributes of what you should be looking at when you’re buying a new suit. While they all say it in a different way every article agrees on two major points

      1. A full canvas makes a better suit
      2. The only reason you would buy an inferior half canvas or fused suit is price

They’re right too. I can share with you that the cost of the tailoring fee for Suit B is around three times the tailoring fee of Suit A.

So if you’re on a budget then Suit A would be the one you would buy right? Sometime price has to come before quality. However,

Suit A is the standard suit made by the world’s biggest online suit company and sells for $449 US dollars.

Suit B is our full canvas Beijing Suit which sells for around $435 US dollars depending on the exchange rate at the time. Both prices include delivery to just about anywhere in the world.

 At first glance you might think that those figures can’t possible be right. How can a full canvas suit individually hand made by a highly experienced tailor be cheaper than a half canvas suit mass produced on a cookie cutter production line? Here’s why.

They have a flashy extremely expensive website and spend millions of dollars each year on marketing and advertising. It works too. They sell hundreds if not thousands of basically the same suit over and over every month.

We have a very basic and inexpensive to run website and spend very little on marketing and advertising. This allows us to work on much tighter margins and we prefer to grow organically by building a customer base of those looking to buy a better suit at a better price. This works for us as we have many loyal customers coming back time and time again.

They put their money into advertising and promotion while we put ours into making better suits for our customers. So where would you prefer your suiting dollar to be spent on. On advertising and marketing to gain more customers for the suit company or making a higher quality suit for you?

As I wrote earlier, the tailoring fee on our full canvas Beijing Suit is three times what we pay for a factory made suits. We do it so we can provide a higher quality suit to our customers than they can buy elsewhere for the same price.

This isn’t rocket science. If you pay three times the price you can easily pay elsewhere you expect a better product. So do we. If the finished product wasn’t far better we would simply go to one of the many suit factories and pay the cheaper price. However, we believe if we keep a tight control on our expenses we can work on a tighter profit margin which allows us to offer a higher quality product for around the same price.

The art of fully canvassing a suit properly is slowly dying out in this mass produced world and tailors experienced in full canvassing are becoming harder to find and don’t work cheap. This makes fully hand tailored full canvas suits far more expensive then the cheaper mass produced factory made suits

Is it worth paying a tailor three times the price of a mass produced factory made suit. Here is what one customer, who has bought both type of suits had to say

“As an aside,I took the opportunity to examine the workmanship of this new suit and to compare it to that of the previous one. I can see a difference. Both are fine suits, but the workmanship of the fully canvassed suit is superior–especially with regards to the detailing.”

Which is exactly what we are aiming for.

We have a large range of hand tailored full canvas suits which you can see HERE

 For those who want an even better suit again we have a range of bespoke quality English cloths with the suits completely stitched by hand by specialist tailors who make suits for bespoke tailors all over the world. These are beautiful suits with world’s best tailoring and fabrics and although they are more expensive than our standard tailored suits they are still well within the reach of the average suit buyer. You can see this range of luxury suits HERE

 

 

Posted in Tailoring | Leave a comment

Back To Work Special

11 PIECES OF CUSTOM MADE CLOTHING FOR UNDER A GRAND.

Lets count them

  • 2 Jackets
  • 4 trousers
  • 5 shirts

All custom made to your measurements and specifications. Two of our high quality Beijing Suits each with an extra pair of trousers. That alone would normally cost you $996 at our normal price. with an extra pair of trousers for each suit you should get years of wear.

Then, to complete the outfit, we will add into the package five custom made shirts. That’s one for every day of the working week. These sell on our website for $89 each so you’re looking at over $1,400 worth of clothing for only $999 which in many cases is what you would pay for a two piece off the rack size suit in a store.

If you’re like me and you want you’re jackets fully canvassed we will arrange that for only $100 per suit extra. It’s hard to find a fully canvassed jacket in a store in today’s mass produced world but if you can expect to pay around $1,2oo for a single full canvas two piece suit.

We will initially send you one suit and one shirt. This allows you the opportunity to tweak your measurements so that the other suit and shirts fit even better. Of course, if you make a mistake with your measurements then of course our comprehensive No Worries Guarantee applies so you can buy with the confidence that your suit will fit.

This is a great deal for someone who is required to wear a suit to work each day. The Beijing suits are designed to take the regular daily wearing and the extra pair of trousers will ensure you get great value for your suiting dollar

Posted in Tailoring | Leave a comment

Wool Blend made to Measure Suit

A SUIT FOR SOMEBODY WHO DOESN’T WEAR SUITS.

I know many people who never wear a suit. So, when they are invited to a function where a suit is expected the last thing they want to do is spend big money on a suit when it’s going to just sit in their wardrobe only to be pulled out on very rare occasions.

This is the perfect suit for those who want an inexpensive suit for a special occasion. Fully tailored and made from a fabric far better than you would expect in a suit at this price. Buying a suit made especially for you, will allow you to give of that fashionable appearance that you won’t get buying an el cheapo suit from a discount store.

THE TAILORING

This is one of only two machine sewn factory made suits that we offer. Our goal is to offer a good basic suit at a bargain price. This factory also makes suits for one of Asia’s biggest retailers and needs to meet their demanding quality standards at an affordable price.

Like all suits in this price range the jacket is a fused canvas (CLICK HERE for an explanation if the various jacket canvassing techniques) and is mostly made by machine which allows us to offer you a good suit at a bargain price.

 THE FABRIC

Unlike most suit companies we source our own fabrics independent of the tailor. This gives us better quality control and allows us to offer a higher quality fabric at a price equal to or better than others will charge for an inferior quality suit.

Rather than the 100% polyester or other artificial fabric you would expect in a suit of this price, our fabric merchant has sourced us a wool blend of approximately. 70% wool, 5% silk and 25% polyester. It’s a good basic quality fabric that’s not only lightweight but will allow the suit to breathe to help keep you cooler in warmer conditions.

WHERE CAN I WEAR THIS SUIT?

We are not going to try to convince you this is the worlds greatest suit. However, if you need a suit for a special occasion and have no idea of when you will ever wear it again this is a quality suit at a value for money price. Wear it then use a proper wooden suit hanger for the jacket and a clip hanger for the trousers and it will be ready for the next time you need it.

If you need a suit for regular wear such as work them we would recommend that you look at our hand tailored suits such as the Beijing Collection which will stand up to daily wear far better and actually work out to be cheaper in the long term.

However, if you’re someone who rarely wears a suit and just want a better quality suit for your money then we can highly recommend this suit.

DELIVERY TIME

This suit is especially custom made for you so it takes around 21 days from when we accept your measurements to delivery.  The measurement process is easier than you may think and is fully explained with some tips to get better accuracy HEREHowever, if you prefer we can also make your suit in a standard off the rack size as well.

WARRANTY

Every Elite Suits is fully guaranteed against tailoring errors and most come with our No Worries Guarantee. However, suit guarantees cost money and we are trying to offer this suit at the lowest price possible so the No Worries Guarantee does not apply to this suit.

This suit is guaranteed against workmanship errors and to be made to the measurements you supply with the standard allowances for body movement, However, if the measurements supplied are not accurate you will need to have the suit altered locally yourself. This is usually a quick and inexpensive process and you will still end up with a great suit at a fantastic price.

Posted in Tailoring | Leave a comment

The New York Suit

The New American Slimline Cut.

Originally created to accommodate the larger frames of many Americans compared to their European counterparts, the “American” cut or “Ivy League sack suit” was characterised by it’s looser cut and  single vent in the back, higher armhole, straight lines, flap pockets and natural (almost no padded) shoulders giving you softer silhouette.

These are great suits if you intend to wear them for long periods as they are extremely comfortable. However, new generations of workers are prepared to sacrifice comfort for style and a more slimline cut of the American suit has appeared.

Copying the Italian “Continental” style of thinner lapels, a tighter fitting chest, and closely tapered waist and adding padding to the shoulders the new American slimline cut is almost unrecognisable when compared to the old standard “sack suit”.

THE FABRIC

This is a nice generic suiting wool for the price. Milled in Italy and dyed in China it’s a lightweight 9 1/2 oz fabric that’s suitable for all year round wear although those in the the northern areas of Europe and Canada may need an overcoat for those extra cold days You can see the range of available fabrics HERE

THE TAILORING

A full canvas suit at under $400 is certainly great value for money. Made in a factory setting but sewn together by seamstresses rather than machine. The factory is owned by a father and son who are both trained and experienced tailors. The father has been a tailor for over 50 years and can spot a defect in a suit from 30 metres.

They mostly make fused and half canvas suits for some of Asia’s best known high end stores but as they have two experienced tailors on hand they are happy to pull the occasional suit off the production schedule and fully canvas it for us.

WHERE CAN I WEAR THIS SUIT?

There were some advantages to the old style American cut. While the baggier overall look wasn’t as stylish they were comfortable especially if you wore the suit for long periods. While some people buy this suit for the office I tend to think the more conservative “English cut” of the Beijing suit is a more appropriate work suit and the higher grade fabric in the Beijing suit will stand up to regular wear than most other similar priced suits offered elsewhere.

I tend to look at the slimline American cut as more of a ‘suit for the younger man. No doubt this is more of a suit for “clubbing” than the office however people do buy them as a work suit.

I would suggest though if you’re starting to show that middle age spread (like me) than this is more of an after five suit than something to wear to work

DELIVERY TIME

This suit is especially custom made for you so it takes around 21 days from when we accept your measurements to delivery.  The measurement process is easier than you may think and is fully explained with some tips to get better accuracy HEREHowever, if you prefer we can also make your suit in a standard off the rack size as well.

WARRANTY

The measurement process isn’t rocket science. If you have a good fitting jacket and trousers you can check your measurements against these and you can see how HERE. If the measurements are accurate then your suit should be a good fit straight out of the box. However, some customers do have their suits tweaked at their local alterations place to get that individual fit they prefer,

Every so often though we get a suit that doesn’t fit right. While there may be a tailoring error it’s fairly rare and most of the problems with fit are due to the measurements we receive not being entirely accurate.

We understand that sometimes mistakes are going to happen and so that you can order your Elite Suit with the confidence that you will have a good fitting suit we offer our No Worries Guarantee. This means if your suit simply doesn’t fit we will either pay for the suit to be altered or arrange a replacement suit at no charge.

If you read the warranty, even though there are a few terms and conditions, I think you will find it’s one of, if not the, most comprehensive warranty in the industry. No ridiculous $30 or $40 limit on alterations or reimbursement by way of store credit. If the suit simply doesn’t fit we will reimburse you in full for the alterations in cash‘or arrange for a replacement suit to be sent to you.

That should allow you to order your Elite Suit with confidence.

Posted in Tailoring | Leave a comment

The Rome Collection Suit

Great Fabric at an Even Better Price.

Rome

 

A few years ago I was talking to one of our fabric merchants who told me about a very good Italian mill that made high quality fabric at a value for money price. He was upset that he couldn’t get stock because a Thailand merchant purchased almost the whole mills output.

Never being one to miss an opportunity to offer our customers good quality fabrics we set ourselves the task of finding a tailor who could make us a full canvas suit from this fabric at a price our customers would find attractive.

After a couple of less than satisfactory results (highlighting the dangers for everyday suitbuyers dealing direct with overseas tailors they know nothing about) we finally found a tailor that is able to make us full canvas suits from this quality fabric at a price most people can afford.

THE FABRIC

Quality Australian merino wool made in Italy this is a  surprisingly good fabric for the money. While I think the manufacturers claim of it being a super 150’s may be a touch ambitious (see my opinion on “s”number here)  nevertheless it’s still a good solid suiting fabric that drapes well and makes an above average suit. This is a strong yet lightweight suiting cloth that’s suitable for year round wear. You won’t be disappointed,

The tailor has also offered us some nice English wool. The Hugo Collection fabrics are made in Huddersfield England by Collins & Co. Rated by the manufacturer as an s150’s wool blended with cashmere, these are again nice fabrics that will make a quality suit.

There is a range of over 200 different fabrics available for the Rome suit and you can make your selection  HERE

THE TAILORING

This fabric is distributed widely in Thailand and Vietnam. The bulk of it is purchased by the big suit factories who have a number of their own websites. You will also see a number of American and European sites offering this fabric for around $800 for a two piece suit but the suits are factory fused canvas made in Thailand although one site makes them in Nepal.

We tried a few tailors with disastrous results, We had a brief relationship with one tailor who failed to deliver the consistent quality we demand and the last two suits he sent us were so bad we had to have them remade by another tailor.

However, they say if you look hard enough you will eventually find what you need. We stumbled across a tailor who among his workers had a retired Italian tailor who had married a Thai woman and retired to Phuket. He works a couple of days a week making their high end suits and now also makes full canvas Italian cut suits for our customers. We have been dealing with this tailor for over three years now and have received great feedback on his suits.

The “Italian Cut”suit  is by design a slim fit suit. The silhouette is sleek, modern and very stylish. . They are shorter and tighter fitting and shoulders are padded while lapel notches and buttons are positioned higher than in British and American jackets. Pockets are normally flapless and jackets have pronounced V-shape. Opposite of British style suits, Italians prefer to use lighter cloths, higher gorge lines, and less overall padding.Pants have tapered waist and hips are snug to the body.

These are especially good suits for the taller man although if you’re like me and had developed that middle age spread the English cut may be a more appropriate choice

WHERE CAN I WEAR THIS SUIT?

These make great business suits for someone looking for a stylish alternative to the more relaxed traditional English cut suits. However, you should realise that there is a slight trade off between comfort and style so if you have a job where you wear the jacket all day perhaps you might be better sticking with the more comfortable English cut in a slim fit design.

Most of us though wear our jackets to the office then take them off and only put them on again for lunch or when we are ready to go home so this suit is perfect for those looking for a suit that allows them to express their own personal sense of fashion.

Certainly this suit is not out of place in an after five setting so you can go straight from the office to drinks and on onto a club and be stylishly dressed for all.

DELIVERY TIME

This suit is especially custom made for you so it takes around 21 days from when we accept your measurements to delivery.  The measurement process is easier than you may think and is fully explained with some tips to get better accuracy HEREHowever, if you prefer we can also make your suit in a standard off the rack size as well.

WARRANTY

The measurement process isn’t rocket science. If you have a good fitting jacket and trousers you can check your measurements against these and you can see how HERE. If the measurements are accurate then your suit should be a good fit straight out of the box. However, some customers do have their suits tweaked at their local alterations place to get that individual fit they prefer,

Every so often though we get a suit that doesn’t fit right. While there may be a tailoring error it’s fairly rare and most of the problems with fit are due to the measurements we receive not being entirely accurate.

We understand that sometimes mistakes are going to happen and so that you can order your Elite Suit with the confidence that you will have a good fitting suit we offer our No Worries Guarantee. This means if your suit simply doesn’t fit we will either pay for the suit to be altered or arrange a replacement suit at no charge.

If you read the warranty, even though there are a few terms and conditions, I think you will find it’s one of, if not the, most comprehensive warranty in the industry. No ridiculous $30 or $40 limit on alterations or reimbursement by way of store credit. If the suit simply doesn’t fit we will reimburse you in full for the alterations in cash‘or arrange for a replacement suit to be sent to you.

That should allow you to order your Elite Suit with confidence.

Posted in Tailoring | Leave a comment

The Milan Suit

Italian Fabric and Style for the Business Executive

Our showpiece for our hand made suits. High quality fabric with the designs straight out of Milan. High grade Merino wool grown in the snowy mountains region of Australia and processed in China. Make no mistake this is extremely high grade fabric equal to some of the big English and Italian brand names only this is around half the cost

Styled a little different to the more relaxed English Cut suits such as The Beijing Suit this Italian Cut has a more predominant shoulder line, slightly wider lapels and is cut closer to the waist to gave that “V” shape common in European designer label suits. It helps to have the “V”shape body and these suits are perfect for those with more an athletic chest.

While to pockets are normally made without flaps in order to accentuate the waist and no vents at the back, like all our custom made suits you can change the details to suit yourself.

This is a suit for the successful business executive who wants a high quality suit at a value for money price. With the option of a full canvas this exceptional hand tailored suit made from very high grade wool would sell in stores in an off the rack size for far more than double what we are asking for here. You can order the full canvas version and add a vest and an extra pair of trousers and have a suit that will last for many years for under $900 US dollars.

Elite Suits is all about choice for the customer. You can choose the style of the suit you want from the American, English or Italian cuts. You can choose if you want the cheaper standard fused canvas or pay a little more for the far higher quality of full canvas construction.

WHY PAY MORE FOR A BETTER FABRIC?

Not all fabric are the same. If they were then all we would sell is our bargain fused or full canvas suits and every suit we have would be under $400. We certainly would not need to sell more expensive suits such as our Ausfine Fabric suits which can go over the $2,000 mark and we do sell a few of them.

Like most things in life, with suits you get what you pay for. The more you pay the better suit you will receive. While there are a lot of things that go into a quality suit there are two very important characteristics that will determine just how high a quality the suit is.

  1. The method of construction
  2. The quality of the fabric

No matter what other people try and tell you, a full canvas suit is far superior to a fused  or half canvas suit. Not only will it look better it will also last far longer.

It’s the same with fabric. While we believe all our suits have far better quality cloth than most other suits in similar price brackets, there are limits to what even we can do. Cheaper fabric will deteriorate with wear. The more you wear your suit the faster the fabric will show signs of wear and tear.

THE FABRIC

This is an extremely high grade fabric. It’s made by a Chinese company that has meticulous control of the whole process. They own their own farms in NSW where they control everything from the breeding of the merino sheep, the optimum number per acre and what they are fed all designed to produce a fleece among the worlds best.

This is then milled and processed in their own factory in Shanghai using the most modern technology available. The result is an extremely high grade fabric equal to some of the big Italian and English brand names but at half the price

It would be difficult to by a suit of this standard in all but the best of stores and you would expect to pay two to three times the price we are asking and you can double that again if you had it custom made by your local tailor. You can see the range of these superb fabrics HERE

THE TAILORING

How your suit is tailored is also important in determining the quality. Just as we sought out quality fabrics for our suits we also wanted quality tailoring instead of the cheap mass produced machine stitched suits that the big suit factories churn out by the thousands.

The standard fused canvas version (CLICK HERE for an explanation of the various jacket canvassing techniques) is made in a factory setting. However, unlike the mass produced machine made suits, the fabric is cut by hand by an experienced cutter/patternmaker and hand sewn together by seamstresses rather than machine made. This human interaction allows for small adjustments to be made that machines simply can’t replicate. So if you’re a shape that’s slightly different to normal, the tailors can adjust the pattern to accommodate your individual requirements. This is something that can’t be done by most factories that use machines to churn out suits in a cookie cutter pattern.

The factory is owned by a father and son who are both trained and experienced tailors. The father has been a tailor for over 50 years and can spot a defect in a suit from 30 metres. They mostly make fused and half canvas suits for some of Asia’s best known high end stores and I don’t mind telling you they charge more than we could pay elsewhere but quality is worth the difference.

The full canvas version is a completely different suit. Completely hand made, the suit is cut, fully canvassed and sewn together by a highly trained tailor who makes nothing else but Italian cut full canvas suits. We use a couple of different tailors to make these suits and most of them run their own tailoring business out of a small workshop,

The extra for a full canvas suit isn’t an expense it’s an investment in good suiting. The full canvas suit will look better, drape around the body better and last far longer than the standard canvas. It’s definitely worth the extra

One quick point of clarification here. When we say “hand sewn” we mean that the suit is sewn by either a tailor or seamstress using a sewing machine rather than a fully automated  machine process as you will find in most suit factories. This is different to a fully “hand stitched” suit with is made by a tailor in the traditional manner with each stitch done by hand with a needle and thread.

WHERE CAN I WEAR THIS SUIT?

Anywhere. It’s as simple as that.  The very grade fabric suit will stand up to far more regular wear than most other similar priced suits offered elsewhere. The full canvas version will wear extremely well and although it may cost a little more you should expect to get a far longer wear time before it needs replacement which means it will actually work out to be cheaper over the longer run.

The Italian style of these suits make it perfect for anywhere. Wear it to the office then straight to dinner afterwards. Good style is not out of place anywhere.

DELIVERY TIME

This suit is especially custom made for you so it takes around 21 days from when we accept your measurements to delivery.  The measurement process is easier than you may think and is fully explained with some tips to get better accuracy HEREHowever, if you prefer we can also make your suit in a standard off the rack size as well.

WARRANTY

The measurement process isn’t rocket science. If you have a good fitting jacket and trousers you can check your measurements against these and you can see how HERE. If the measurements are accurate then your suit should be a good fit straight out of the box. However, some customers do have their suits tweaked at their local alterations place to get that individual fit they prefer,

Every so often though we get a suit that doesn’t fit right. While there may be a tailoring error it’s fairly rare and most of the problems with fit are due to the measurements we receive not being entirely accurate.

We understand that sometimes mistakes are going to happen and so that you can order your Elite Suit with the confidence that you will have a good fitting suit we offer our No Worries Guarantee. This means if your suit simply doesn’t fit we will either pay for the suit to be altered or arrange a replacement suit at no charge.

If you read the warranty, even though there are a few terms and conditions, I think you will find it’s one of, if not the, most comprehensive warranty in the industry. No ridiculous $30 or $40 limit on alterations or reimbursement by way of store credit. If the suit simply doesn’t fit we will reimburse you in full for the alterations in cash‘or arrange for a replacement suit to be sent to you.

That should allow you to order your Elite Suit with confidence.

Posted in Tailoring | Leave a comment

Checks, Plaids & Flannels

Affordable Style

The only thing about this suit that surprises me is that we don’t sell more of them? I love a check pattern and have four suits in checks and plaids as well as the traditional grey flannel suit. Solid colours have their place and pinstripes will always be popular but nothing says style like a high quality check suit. Stick with the more basic checks and plaids and it’s a suit that’s fine for the office while still looking good after hours or in any social occasion. However, with a suit for casual wear you can let you imagination go wild and pick something a little more flashy to show your individual sense of both fashion and style.

If you have never owned a flannel suit you don’t know what you’re missing. There is a reason they have been popular for over half a century. Soft to the touch these are beautiful suits to wear. Team it with a check shirt and solid colour tie and you’re ready for anywhere from the boardroom to the bar.

This is the second upgrade to our Beijing suit. Made by the same tailors the only difference is the fabric. It’s a higher grade and more expensive cloth hence the higher price for the suit.

Elite Suits is all about choice for the customer. You can choose the style of the suit you want from the American, English or Italian cuts. You can choose if you want the cheaper standard fused canvas or pay a little more for the far higher quality of full canvas construction.

Finally you can choose the grade of the fabric you want. Pay a little more and get a higher grade fabric. We have four suits in the English cut range and in order of fabric quality they are the Beijing, English Stripes, Check Plaids & Flannels and the Shanghai Collection.

All four suits are made the same way by the same tailors and the only difference is the grade of fabric used. This gives you the choice of paying a little more to get a higher grade cloth.

WHY PAY MORE FOR A BETTER FABRIC?

Not all fabric are the same. If they were then all we would sell is our bargain fused or full canvas suits and every suit we have would be under $400. We certainly would not need to sell more expensive suits such as our Ausfine Fabric suits which can go over the $2,000 mark and we do sell a few of them.

Like most things in life, with suits you get what you pay for. The more you pay the better suit you will receive. While there are a lot of things that go into a quality suit there are two very important characteristics that will determine just how high a quality the suit is.

  1. The method of construction
  2. The quality of the fabric

No matter what other people try and tell you, a full canvas suit is far superior to a fused  or half canvas suit. Not only will it look better it will also last far longer.

It’s the same with fabric. While we believe all our suits have far better quality cloth than most other suits in similar price brackets, there are limits to what even we can do. Cheaper fabric will deteriorate with wear. The more you wear your suit the faster the fabric will show signs of wear and tear.

All the suits in the English cut range starting with the Beijing Collection are made as suits that can be worn in a business setting and therefore are worn regularly. Accordingly, when we selected our fabrics we looked for ones that will stand up to being worn often. We looked for fabrics that are lightweight yet strong enough to withstand regular wearing.

The higher grade of fabric used the longer your suit should last and still continue to look good. So while the Beijing Collection suits are great value for money and you should get good wear time out of them for the price, by paying a little more your suit is made from a higher grade fabric which should feel better, drape the body better and most importantly last longer.

To learn more about fabric quality have read OF THIS where fabric quality is discussed in detail.

THE FABRIC

While the flannels are more to the lightweight end at around 10oz the checks and plaids are a heavier cloth up to 13 oz. For the colder climates, such as our many Canadian and Northern European customers it can be a three season suit but many may find it a little heavy in summer. For our customers in warmer climates it’s definitely more of a winter suit but still something you would want in your wardrobe.

However, the advantage with the heavier fabrics is not only that they are great for those really cold days but it’s a far sturdier cloth that will last almost forever, Look after your suit and you will get many years out of it.

As it’s a higher grade of cloth than you normally find in suits this price you won’t get the issues that can plague cheaper fabrics and you will find that the suit will wear better and  far longer. You can see the range of available fabrics HERE

THE TAILORING

How your suit is tailored is also important in determining the quality. These suits are made by the same tailors that make our Beijing Collection suits. Just as we sought out quality fabrics for our suits we also wanted quality tailoring instead of the cheap mass produced machine stitched suits that the big suit factories churn out by the thousands.

The standard fused canvas version (CLICK HERE for an explanation of the various jacket canvassing techniques) is made in a factory setting. However, unlike the mass produced machine made suits, the fabric is cut by hand by an experienced cutter/patternmaker and hand sewn together by seamstresses rather than machine made. This human interaction allows for small adjustments to be made that machines simply can’t replicate. So if you’re a shape that’s slightly different to normal, the tailors can adjust the pattern to accommodate your individual requirements. This is something that can’t be done by most factories that use machines to churn out suits in a cookie cutter pattern.

The factory is owned by a father and son who are both trained and experienced tailors. The father has been a tailor for over 50 years and can spot a defect in a suit from 30 metres. They mostly make fused and half canvas suits for some of Asia’s best known high end stores and I don’t mind telling you they charge more than we could pay elsewhere but quality is worth the difference.

The full canvas version is a completely different suit. Completely hand made, the suit is cut, fully canvassed and sewn together by a highly trained tailor who makes nothing else but full canvas suits. We use a couple of different tailors to make these suits and most of them run their own tailoring business out of a small workshop,

As we are using trained tailors that handmake the suits we are able to accommodate some small changes that can’t be done in the factories that machine make suits to a cookie cutter pattern. Items such as adjustments to the lapel size or lowering the buttoning position can be done. We can also make a natural shoulder instead of a highly padded one for those of you who have squarer shoulders.

The extra for a full canvas suit isn’t an expense it’s an investment in good suiting. The full canvas suit will look better, drape around the body better and last far longer than the standard canvas. It’s definitely worth the extra

One quick point of clarification here. When we say “hand sewn” we mean that the suit is sewn by either a tailor or seamstress using a sewing machine rather than a fully automated  machine process as you will find in most suit factories. This is different to a fully “hand stitched” suit with is made by a tailor in the traditional manner with each stitch done by hand with a needle and thread.

WHERE CAN I WEAR THIS SUIT?

Anywhere. It’s as simple as that.  The higher grade fabric in the Beijing suit will stand up to regular wear than most other similar priced suits offered elsewhere. The full canvas version will wear extremely well and although it may cost a little more you should expect to get a far longer wear time before it needs replacement which means it will actually work out to be cheaper over the longer run.

The traditional English cut of these suits make it perfect for the office. Designed to be worn comfortably for a long time the more relaxed fit of the traditional English cut make it the ideal suit for business wear. This is a suit you can wear a couple of times a week and still expect it to last for many years and still look good. Combine a well made suit with a fashionable fabric choice and not only can you have a suit suitable for the office but still look good at an after five setting.

DELIVERY TIME

This suit is especially custom made for you so it takes around 21 days from when we accept your measurements to delivery.  The measurement process is easier than you may think and is fully explained with some tips to get better accuracy HEREHowever, if you prefer we can also make your suit in a standard off the rack size as well.

WARRANTY

The measurement process isn’t rocket science. If you have a good fitting jacket and trousers you can check your measurements against these and you can see how HERE. If the measurements are accurate then your suit should be a good fit straight out of the box. However, some customers do have their suits tweaked at their local alterations place to get that individual fit they prefer,

Every so often though we get a suit that doesn’t fit right. While there may be a tailoring error it’s fairly rare and most of the problems with fit are due to the measurements we receive not being entirely accurate.

We understand that sometimes mistakes are going to happen and so that you can order your Elite Suit with the confidence that you will have a good fitting suit we offer our No Worries Guarantee. This means if your suit simply doesn’t fit we will either pay for the suit to be altered or arrange a replacement suit at no charge.

If you read the warranty, even though there are a few terms and conditions, I think you will find it’s one of, if not the, most comprehensive warranty in the industry. No ridiculous $30 or $40 limit on alterations or reimbursement by way of store credit. If the suit simply doesn’t fit we will reimburse you in full for the alterations in cash‘or arrange for a replacement suit to be sent to you.

That should allow you to order your Elite Suit with confidence.

Posted in Tailoring | Leave a comment